BEAUTY: gorgeous hair starts at the scalp

Our scalp is an extension of the skin on our face, so why aren’t we lavishing it with the same attention? Juliette Winter explains how to boost your scalp health for stronger, more lustrous hair.

T ruth be told, hair is dead.

All that talk about bringing locks to life is, frankly, only factually accurate if you’re referencing the root of the follicle – the bit where the hair bulb spouts those pretty strands of protein that we fuss over so much. Scalp health hardly sounds sexy, but it’s often the root cause of all your crowning glory woes.

“Your skin doesn’t stop where your hairline starts,” says Lisa Caddy, global training director and consultant trichologist for Philip Kingsley. “Think of your scalp as an extension of your face – just with more oil and sweat glands – and give it the same care and attention to optimise healthy-looking hair.”

For starters, that means adopting a more rigorous cleansing regimen because when oils and product build up on your scalp, it can cause itching, flakiness and dandruff. “When people see flakes, they think it’s because their scalp must be dry, but often the opposite is true,” Lisa explains. “Dandruff and eczema can flare up with temperature changes, stress, infrequent shampooing, excess dairy products or hormonal changes.”

Even diet has a big impact on hair health. “Hair cells are the secondfastest dividing cells in the body, which means they’re pretty demanding when it comes to food. However, the body recognises the hair as ‘non-essential tissue’, which means hair is never prioritised when it comes to nutrition,” Lisa says.

She recommends a diet rich in protein and omega fatty acids to improve hair strength and scalp health, but says carbs also have their place. “Complex carbohydrates provide hair cells with energy to keep the follicle functioning, so I always advise clients struggling with their hair to include carbohydrates.”

If your hair is lacklustre, then scalp self-care should be your first port of call. Adding an extra step or two is all it takes to elevate a regular cleanse and hydrate regimen to a rejuvenating scalp ‘facial’. Stick with it – the bonus flow-on effect is more lustrous locks. STEP 1: Scrub

According to hair guru Kevin Murphy, scalp flakiness is best remedied with an exfoliant, such as (1) Kevin Murphy Scalp.Spa Scrub, $44. “Choose an exfoliant with perfectly round spheres so there are no lumps or jagged edges that irritate the scalp,” he says. If you’re sensitive, try an acid-based scrub. (3) Philip Kingsley Exfoliating Scalp Mask (2 pack), $41.95, uses beta hydroxy acid ingredients to lift old skin cells, while (8) Drunk Elephant T.L.C Happi Scalp Scrub, $58, has alpha hydroxyl acids to dissolve flakes and product build-up. STEP 2: Cleanse

Contrary to popular belief, hair experts advise washing hair frequently to remove dirt, bacteria, sweat and pollution. “Shampooing daily is perfectly fine. In fact, it’s better to shampoo more frequently than less,” says Lisa, who recommends shampooing once if you wash daily, but twice if it has been more than two days, and not piling the hair on top of your head. “Washing your hair is really cleaning your scalp to create a healthier environment that promotes hair growth,” she says. Use a shampoo specifically formulated to be gentle on scalps, such as

(2) Goldwell Kerasilk Revitalize Nourishing Shampoo, $35.95, or try a deep-cleansing formula, such as the cooling (7) Klorane Scalp Detox Aquatic Mint Shampoo, $13.95. STEP 3: Tone

Toner (AKA leave-in treatment) is a step not to be skipped as it helps to close the scalp pores and reduce oil production. (6) Dr. Hauschka Hair Tonic, $38, contains horse chestnut to promote healthy moisture balance on the scalp, and calendula to act as an astringent and skin soother. STEP 4: Hydrate

A scrub should be followed by moisture and, while facial oils are all the rage, scalp health experts recommend avoiding oils on the scalp as it can cause the skin to clog. “If the hair is feeling dry, it has lost water, not oil, so it’s better to use a water-based hair treatment,” Lisa says. Once a week with a nourishing mask, such as (4) Aveda Invati Advanced Intensive Hair and Scalp Masque, $62, can work wonders to thicken fine or thinning hair. STEP 5: Protect

In the scorching heat of summer, you’ll need an extra protective step before heading out the door. “Hair can burn in the sunshine but, because we don’t feel it, we’re mostly unaware,” Lisa explains. “You might notice colour fade, your hair feeling dry or your scalp peeling if you’ve been in the sun too long.” A hat to protect from the harsh Aussie rays is a given, but it also helps to spritz locks with a product containing UV filters, such as (5) Evo Icon Welder, $34.