From my kitchen

Cook and winner of The Great Australian Bake Off Sian Redgrave joins The Weekly and shares her take on an Italian classic.

Bolognese … the eternal dish of comfort. No matter one’s age, this slow-cooked sauce of joy consistently unites us all in its rich and loving arms. As a child I dreamt of generous bowls of this on the table, but my mother had other (plant-based) plans in store for me. Sleepovers at friends’ homes were my moment to gluttonously eat the family staple, and so my love affair with this classic began. Everyone has their little secrets, passed down by their mothers and grandmothers, but how was I to find the insight into such perfection without guidance? The solution was simple – eat, eat, and eat some more! After some bowls full of revelation and others of sheer calorific disappointment, I’ve arrived at a recipe that will satisfy any appetite.

So, down to the dos and don’ts. We’re all entitled to our own preferences when it comes to a meal that offers such satisfaction, but there are intricacies that I believe make a fundamental difference. The first is to use a mix of veal and pork mince – fat, flavour and texture are paramount with this combination.

Secondly, the staple of a good soffritto – an equal mix of onion, celery and carrot. This is an integral step when creating a complex sauce; the cooking must be done slowly so the sugars from the vegetables release and break down to form a lovely, glistening mush.

Thirdly, use white wine, not red – it gives the sauce a lighter, less bitter flavour. Lastly and most importantly (although not traditional, sorry, nonnas of the world) is the addition of a cheese rind. Not any old cheese, but Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano. Add these odd ends to your bolognese – and all soups and stews, for that matter. Both are semi-aged hard Italian cheeses, originally made by monks. The rind adds an incredible umami element to the sauce. I promise you: this little secret addition makes for a truly memorable bolognese.

1. In a large, heavy-based pot, place the pancetta over a medium heat, along with the olive oil.

Stir frequently until the fat has rendered. Reduce the heat a little and then add the butter, onion, celery, carrot and a small pinch of salt. Sauté this gently for 15 minutes or so, until the vegetables have become very soft and have formed a paste-like consistency.

2. Turn the heat back to medium; add in the pork and veal mince, coating well with the vegetables and pancetta. Using a wooden spoon, break into small pieces and stir until the meat loses its red colour and begins to fry.

3. Add in the crushed tomatoes. Allow this to cook for 2 minutes, stirring, then add the wine, bay leaves, a few good cracks of black pepper and nutmeg. Simmer for 5 minutes, allowing the alcohol to evaporate. Finally, add the milk, broth and parmesan rind. Turn the heat down so the sauce is at the most gentle of simmers. Cook, uncovered, for 3 hours, stirring every so often. If the sauce needs more liquid, you can add 1/4 cup of water, but the end result you’re after is a thick, luscious sauce

– no liquid remaining.

4. Add cooked, al dente pasta (don’t use spaghetti as the thick sauce needs a sturdy pasta to hold it) to the bolognese, along with a substantial splash of the water the pasta cooked in. This helps bind the sauce to the pasta as it contains starch. Toss gently and check for seasoning. Serve with lots of extra grated cheese.