Beauty: what’s in a name
As our notion of ageing and beauty shifts, some brands are banking on semantics to create positive change.
Every now and then brands tackle the beauty vernacular. The magazine I worked on in New York banned the word ‘anti-ageing’ many years ago. It was quite inconvenient given that most of the products we wrote about were formulated to improve ageing skin. At the time, I thought it was woke and empowering. At the time, I had no wrinkles. Fast forward a few decades, some children and two international moves ... I have well-earned lines. And I wouldn’t say I’m offended by words like anti-ageing anymore. In fact, if that’s what the formula actually does then why not mention it – I’d quite like to know what I’m buying.
Part of the problem is that skincare labels can overstate performance. For instance, I’m yet to experience “poreless” or “glass” skin after using a primer. Or to see my skin look lit from within.
And for that reason I think it’s a good idea brands are more careful with managing our expectations.
This is all front of mind because, most recently, global beauty giant Unilever has announced it will no longer use the word ‘normal’ on any packaging, as a commitment to a “positive beauty strategy championing a new era of beauty that’s inclusive, equitable and sustainable”.
How does this change play out in the beauty aisle? If, like me, you buy shampoo for “normal” hair, I guess you now need to identify the new word that describes hair that’s not too dry, colour-treated, curly or overly fine. Like Goldilocks, perhaps they’ll describe me as “just right”. Maybe “not too needy” is an option? Or “basic”? It could be that cancelling the word “normal” creates more problems than it solves.
Other brands are taking steps too: Imbue hair care has swapped out “curl taming” and “frizz fighting” with more empowering words like “liberate” and “energise”, while Glow Recipe has banned “flawless” because it assumes we all want skin that’s free of breakouts, pores and wrinkles. To be honest, I wouldn’t mind it. Perhaps I’ve been at this game too long, because I mostly want to roll my eyes and reach for a serum promising radiance.
“Part of the problem is that skincare labels can overstate performance. I’m yet to experience ‘poreless’ or ‘glass’ skin.”