Classic dessert: Julia Busuttil Nishimura’s tiramisù

Julia Busuttil Noshimura

Melbourne-based food writer, teacher and author of Ostro cookbook shares her take on Italian food that’s generous and made to share.

Tiramisù is truly a classic, but, having originated in the Veneto region in Italy’s north in the 1960s, it’s a rather new culinary creation by Italian standards. Tiramisù, meaning ‘pick me up’, is a great celebration dish – not only is it loved by most, but it stores well in the fridge so you can make it ahead of time. The homemade mascarpone is rich and luscious, while the savoiardi made from scratch give the dessert just the right texture. I like to add Marsala to my espresso; however, many people add rum, brandy or another liquor. I learned how to make tiramisù whilst living in Italy – my version is rich, with lots of mascarpone and a good hit of espresso. If you prefer it a little less damp, soak your biscuits according to your preference. I usually make my tiramisù in a large, round glass serving dish, which is traditional, but a rectangular or square dish works perfectly fine.

Julia’s tiramisù SERVES 8 TO 10

5 eggs, separated

120g caster sugar pinch of sea salt

300ml espresso, cooled

⅓ cup (80ml) Marsala Dutch-process cocoa powder or grated dark chocolate, for sprinkling

MASCARPONE

1 litre pure cream

2 tablespoons lemon juice

SAVOIARDI

icing sugar, for dusting

4 eggs, separated

100g caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling

1 vanilla pod, split and seeds scraped (optional) pinch of sea salt

⅔ cup (100g) plain flour

½ cup (60g) cornflour

1. To make mascarpone, heat cream in a saucepan over a low–medium heat until it reaches 90°C, just before boiling point. Add lemon juice and stir continuously for approximately 5 minutes. You don’t want the cream to boil, barely simmering is fine. Remove from heat; set aside to cool completely. Place a sieve over a bowl; line with three or four layers of clean, damp muslin or cheesecloth. Pour cream into lined sieve; place in the fridge for at least 8 hours or overnight to drain. You will be left with a thick, velvety mixture, which is your mascarpone. Transfer to an airtight container; store in the fridge for up to 3 days.

2. To make savoiardi, preheat oven to 180°C (160°C fan-forced). Line two baking trays with baking paper, dust generously with icing sugar. In an electric mixer or using a hand whisk, beat together egg yolks, half the sugar and vanilla seeds, if using, until pale and thick. In a clean bowl, beat egg whites and salt until stiff peaks form. Gradually add remaining sugar; continue to beat until glossy and stiff again.

3. Fold egg yolk mixture gently into egg whites, then sift flours over mixture, a little at a time, gently incorporating before adding more. Spoon batter into a piping bag fitted with a 2cm round nozzle; pipe into 8cm fingers, leaving space between each biscuit as they will spread. Dust twice with icing sugar, allowing icing sugar to absorb into batter between each dusting. Sprinkle a little extra caster sugar over each biscuit; bake for 10-15 minutes until golden. Leave to cool before removing from trays. Store in an airtight container for up to a week.

4. Using a hand whisk, electric beaters or an electric mixer, beat egg yolks with sugar until pale and thick. Add mascarpone; gently whisk in until combined. In a clean bowl, beat egg whites and salt to stiff peaks. Gently fold egg whites into mascarpone mixture a little at a time, being careful to keep air in mixture. Set aside.

5. Mix espresso with the Marsala, adding a little water if it’s too strong for your liking.

6. To assemble tiramisù, spread just enough mascarpone to cover the base of your serving dish. Working with a few savoiardi at a time, dip into espresso mix for a few seconds until espresso has just soaked in – any longer and biscuit will become too soggy. Place soaked biscuits onto cream in a single layer. Top with more cream, being more generous this time, carefully spread to cover biscuits. Repeat layers until savoiardi and cream have been used, making final layer cream. Top with sifted cocoa or grated chocolate; place in fridge for at least 2 hours before serving. It will be even better the following day.

Julia's notes

Making mascarpone at home is the closest thing you’ll get to the mascarpone you buy in Italy – creamy, rich and luscious. Nothing like the store-bought stuff we find here, which tends to be grainy and dry. My recipe makes about 500g.