Here’s a toast to couscous

HOW poor do you have to be for rice to be considered a luxury? Can the world’s simplest and most ubiquitous food really be out of reach?

Sadly, for too many people around the world, this question is a vexed reality.

We are exposed daily to stories of malnutrition in some of the most readily recognisable places (South Sudan, Malawi, Nepal and Burundi), yet we sometimes forget that dire poverty and its effects are felt in countries that have no need for such disadvantage — 42 per cent of Indian children are underweight. That is twice the rate of sub-Saharan Africa.

In recent history this has affected countries we now consider to be industrialised and advanced.

When the nation of Israel was declared on May 14, 1948 by David Ben Gurion, the first prime minister, it was born into conflict. The next day a collection of neighbouring Arab states declared war and invaded.

Farming was difficult in a climate of war and imports were almost unobtainable in the depressed economy.

Israeli cooks resorted to a traditional Sephardic recipe to supplement the loss of other grains. Taking wheat flour and water they would rub the paste into coarse balls.

Previously these would be sun-dried to be boiled later as required, a dish widely known as pearl couscous. Yet instead, local Jewish chefs toasted the balls over a skillet, giving their couscous a nutty, caramel and rich flavour.

All couscous follows this basic technique but only Israeli couscous is toasted.

Israelis retain a deep pride in their couscous and it remains a core ingredient in daily cookery.

ISRAELI SALAD WITH PEACHES AND PECANS serves / 4

2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp Dijon mustard Sea salt flakes and freshly milled black pepper 2 cups baby kale leaves 1 cup roasted red capsicums, sliced 1 red onion, finely sliced 1 bunch dill sprigs ¼ cup dried cranberries, chopped ½ cup pecans, roughly chopped

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