Yolngu people teaching tourists
THERE are few chances these days to experience true seclusion. But in the farthest corner of the Northern Territory, a hidden – and somewhat mystical – community offers just that.
East Arnhem Land is considered by many as the last frontier of Australia. With dense bushland, rolling red cliffs and crystal water lapping at its doorstep, it’s a unique Australian landscape that time has almost forgotten.
There is no phone reception, no Wi-Fi and no luxury accommodation.
The Yolngu people have lived on the unspoilt land for thousands of generations and their knowledge of the region runs deep. Without modernday distractions, visitors to East Arnhem Land are given the chance to immerse themselves in traditional indigenous culture.
Yolngu leader Marcus Lacey says opening his homeland up to tourism through ventures is a chance to share their way of life with the wider Australian population. “Come here, sit with us, walk with us, eat with us,” says Marcus. “This is real Aboriginal Australia.”
Getting there
The old mining town of Nhulunbuy is about an hour’s flight from Darwin. From here, it’s a 20-minute light plane trip to the Nyinyikay homeland, where visitors are based for most of the tour.
The homelands are also accessible by road – albeit a rough one. But it’s from the air that you get the best views. The bright blue water cast against deep red earth is nothing short of spectacular. Once landed, visitors are given a traditional welcome to country by the Nyinyikay community and met with a bungul (dance) ceremony before being invited into camp.
Exclusive visits to the homelands are granted during the dry season, May to October, a time that is characterised by warm, dry sunny days and cool nights.
Bush tucker
When it comes to food, the Yolngu people have mastered the balance of necessity and sustainability. The dense bushland and crystal waters that lap at the edges of the homeland provide an abundance of food or “bush tucker”. But as Marcus explains, respect for the land is vital.
“We only take what we need and only at the right time.”
Sharing is an integral part of the Yolngu culture – after a particularly successful fishing trip, the entire homeland is invited to the feast. Mud crabs, stingrays and sharks frequent the menu while sea turtles are considered a rare treat.
Culture class
The Yolngu people are storytellers. Whether it’s through spoken words around the campfire, singing, hunting or even bungul (dancing), every lesson is born from a story.
Visitors to Nyinyikay are guided through the intricate and often complex Yolngu culture and traditional way of life.
Set against the backdrop of the rugged coastline, Yolngu leaders take guests step by step through lessons in malk (skin names), how song lines connect Yitidjka and Doha clans and the nature of Yolngu ghurru (relationships).
Inquiry is encouraged but visitors are warned that not every question can be answered. As is traditional in indigenous culture, some knowledge is considered too private, or even sacred, to talk about with the wider public.
It is this element of the visit that seems to embrace the broader vision of indigenous tourism; to spread knowledge of traditional Aboriginal life without exploiting it.