The Chronicle

Finding bliss in Bhutan is easy

- CHRISTINE RETSCHLAG The writer travelled as a guest of Wendy Wu Tours. More at escape.com.au

IT’S called the happiest country on the planet and there are plenty of reasons why. Despite lacking the wealth of more advanced nations, Bhutan lives by its mantra of Gross National Happiness, something visitors can also embrace.

The environmen­t is 1. jealously protected

Boasting just over 800,000 people spread across 38,500sq km, three quarters of Bhutan is protected forest, which delivers fresh air, clean water and zero pollution. And this means organic food, something tourists can experience if they visit the colourful Centenary Farmers’ Markets in the capital of Thimphu. Think fresh yak butter hanging on strings, smoky black sausages, hot chillies of every hue and the exotic-looking fiddlehead fern. In the lush Paro Valley, head to the open-air farmers’ markets on Sundays, and marvel at mountains of rice grown in its emerald paddies.

Tradition is heavily 2. preserved

To the untrained western eye, it looks like the blokes of Bhutan are out and about in their bath robes. But this important dress tradition, the gho, is heavily adopted by the male population. Women wear a kira (skirt) and toego ( jacket), paying homage to their heritage.

For more tastes of tradition, head to Thimphu’s craft bazaar, a slender strip of timber huts in the capital’s centre, where only Bhutanese arts and crafts can be sold. There are handmade rugs, scarfs and artwork on sale here.

Also visit the Jungshi handmade paper factory, the only one of its kind in Bhutan, which produces 1200 sheets of paper each day. There’s even one type of paper in which marijuana leaves, which grow like weeds in Bhutan, are embedded.

It’s in the signs 3.

Imagine being the only capital city in the world without a traffic light. Thimphu did trial a traffic light once but it resulted in more accidents and incidents, so it was scrapped in favour of police directing cars around main intersecti­ons. You’ll also find encouragin­g signs such as “no hurry, no worry” as you drive along these twisty highways.

Observe the copious signage warning against the evils of smoking (duty-free cigarettes are banned here) as well as drinking. Tuesdays are considered national “dry days” although tourists can request a drink in major hotels.

The mountains are 4. considered sacred

Despite being home to Gangkhar Puensum, the world’s third highest mountain at 7570m, unlike neighbouri­ng Nepal, climbing the Himalayas is not permitted in Bhutan. The Bhutanese believe deities still exist in these mountains, which have long protected this landlocked country from invasion.

For those who do want to do an interestin­g trek, head to Tiger’s Nest Temple in Paro where a six-hour return hike will take you to this mountain monastery. Less advanced trekkers can walk halfway to the cafe, which takes three hours return.

Agencies dedicated 5. solely to happiness

So serious are Bhutanese about Gross National Happiness, there are three places dedicated to looking after this concept. The Centre for Bhutan Studies conducts a GNH survey every three years. The last survey found 91.2 per cent of Bhutanese reported they were overall “very happy”. The government’s GNH Commission is committed to developing bigger projects; and the GNH Centre runs short courses, programs and workshops in a bid to make happiness more accessible to everyday people.

Buddhism is omnipresen­t 6.

From prayer wheels everywhere, to Buddha Point, this religion is heavily observed. Start your journey at Thimphu’s Buddha Point, a 53m, 24carat gold statue, and the largest sitting Buddha in the world. Head to the delightful­ly named Fortress of the Glorious Religion in Thimphu, these days used as government admin buildings as well as a monastery. In Paro, the Kichu Temple dates back to the 7th century and is the oldest in Bhutan.

Education and health 7. care are free

All Bhutanese have access to a free education, including university, but what’s even more impressive is their health-care system. There are modern hospitals, which can perform most surgeries, and even a National Traditiona­l Medicine Hospital. Even visitors get free health care in Bhutan.

The country is home to a vast collection of indigenous plants said to treat a wide variety of ailments. To learn more, visit the Institute for Traditiona­l Medicine Services and its museum, where a comprehens­ive cabinet explains its herbs and their uses.

People live simply 8.

Despite having relatively recent access to television and the internet, the people still live simple lives. One of the best examples of this nonmateria­listic lifestyle is at the Anim Dratshang nunnery at Drubthob Goemba, near Thimphu. Visitors can arrive, unannounce­d, and observe the nuns at prayer. Establishe­d in 1976, it has about 80 nuns.

 ?? Photo: iStock ?? WALK THIS WAY: A prayer flag decorated suspension bridge over a river on the route between Paro and Thimphu, Bhutan.
Photo: iStock WALK THIS WAY: A prayer flag decorated suspension bridge over a river on the route between Paro and Thimphu, Bhutan.
 ??  ?? Dochula Pass, where 108 memorial chortens or stupas, known as Druk Wangyal Chortens, have been built.
Dochula Pass, where 108 memorial chortens or stupas, known as Druk Wangyal Chortens, have been built.
 ?? Photos: iStock ?? Bhutan has been continuous­ly voted one of the “happiest” countries on the planet.
Photos: iStock Bhutan has been continuous­ly voted one of the “happiest” countries on the planet.

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