A true beating heart
Vibrant capital never sleeps
THE black-out drapes are drawn but the soft light coming through the silky secondtier curtains is beckoning me across the room.
It’s late. I’m jet-lagged. But I can’t help myself.
I free the panorama window of its material encumbrance to reveal the full glory of the setting.
In doing so, the fairyland of lights of this vibrant, cosmopolitan city are invited into my room on the 23rd floor, announcing: “You have arrived.”
This is Bangkok – one of my favourite capitals of the world. But not as I have ever seen it before.
Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel in Thonburi is one of many five-star hotels along the Chao Phraya River. But what sets it apart from most is the spectacular vistas of “the River of Kings” from every guest suite.
Immediately below me lies the poolside tropical greenery lit up like a Christmas tree at sister hotel Anantara Riverside Resort. I recall that the last time I was a guest there and fell in love with this part of riverside Bangkok, Avani was still a construction site.
As my gaze follows the river to my left, the dazzling circle of the Asiatique Sky Ferris wheel is unmistakable, sending a beam of white light across the width of the river to the humble-looking Samray Church on my riverbank.
Like all great cities, Bangkok never sleeps.
Over the next four days and nights, I simply can’t get enough of the Chao Phraya symphony of life.
From the 26th floor infinity pool’s uninterrupted views on my early morning swim and breakfast in Skyline with its floor-to-ceiling windows, I see the industrious city come to life with the first long barge convoys being pulled by tiny “tug boats”.
At Attitude Rooftop Bar and Restaurant, hours pass by over a burger and margarita lunch as the tourism hub hits its stride and the passing parade of river traffic darts here, there and everywhere.
Major hotels in this section of Chao Phraya provide free shuttle boats for guests to Sathorn Central Pier (which connects to the BTS Skytrain at Saphan Taksin for shopping and other attractions).
An afternoon ride on Anantara’s free shuttle boat brings me to the beating heart of the river city at water level.
The contrast of old traditional and shiny new modern is evident everywhere.
But dinner aboard the oldworld charm of Manohra Cruises’ beautifully restored antique rice barge is where the real magic happens.
The elegant 120-year-old vessel is crafted in traditional style with a canopy and surrounds up to 70 diners in elegant teak wood.
The deep-hulled hardwood vessels were once the main form of transport on the river, especially in the mid-18th century when King Taksin encouraged trade with China and neighbouring countries.
While aboard we see Siriraj Hospital – the oldest in Bangkok – built by King Rama V in 1888 after one of his sons died from a mysterious illness, and the open-air restaurants and riverside promenade and community garden of Maharaj Pier next to the illuminated Grand Palace.
As a total of 24 points of interest are laid out before us, our table indulges in a set menu of gourmet Thai cuisine.
We glide beside the colourful spectacle of floating restaurants and party boats as we make our way to our destination: the Rama VIII Bridge – one of the world’s largest asymmetrical cable-stayed bridges, opened on May 7, 2002.
It represents a son’s love for his father, inaugurated on September 20 on the birthday of the late King Ananda Mahidol (Rama VIII).
On the return journey, we move in closer and linger longer at Wat Arun or “the Temple of Dawn” to absorb the majesty of the Cambodian-style tower or “prang” at 67m high. The night has been filled with “pinch-myself” moments.