The Chronicle

DON’T LEAVE THE FUN TO WHALES

GET INTO THE WATER AND EXPLORE THEIR HABITAT – AND MAYBE HAVE THEM COME CLOSE ENOUGH FOR YOU TO SEE EYE TO EYE

- WORDS: SEANNA CRONIN

Each winter, Hervey Bay is a playground for humpback whales on their annual migration along the east coast.

The clear sheltered waters between the Wide Bay coast and Fraser Island are the perfect spot for some tail slapping, fin waving and spy hopping as the curious cetaceans check out the visitors who have come to check them out.

It’s some of the best whale watching in Australia, but why should the whales have all the fun?

Hervey Bay is now an underwater playground for humans too as the ex-HMAS

Tobruk settles into its new resting place. While the heavy landing ship was scuttled in October last year, it has only been open to recreation­al scuba divers for just over six months.

About 30km off the coast between Bundaberg and Hervey Bay, the boat ride to and from the dive site doubles as a whale watching trip during the season that runs from July to November.

The Tobruk’s scuttling may not have gone to plan, with the ship listing on to its starboard side, but that hasn’t affected the plethora of marine life the wreck has already attracted.

I first dived the wreck in March and when I returned last month with Hervey Bay Dive Centre, there was already a noticeable increase in fish and other weird and wonderful critters.

Our dive guide couldn’t contain his excitement over a well-camouflage­d nudibranch he spotted among the substrate. Why so much fuss over a sea slug? It was the first the eagle-eyed crew had spotted since diving on the Tobruk began.

We saw sparkling schools of baitfish, a friendly turtle and a bull ray as big as a car, but it was the nudibranch the crew couldn’t stop talking about the entire boat ride back to the harbour.

The small animals are just as important as the big ones when it comes to the health of an artificial reef like the Tobruk and new residents will continue to move in as they swim, crawl or drift their way to the structure.

Like ex-HMAS Brisbane off Mooloolaba, the Tobruk is a major drawcard for the region and expands the water sports on offer. Ranging in depth from 12–30m, it is suitable for divers of all experience levels.

Unlike the Brisbane, the Tobruk has stern doors that are open, revealing its colossal main tank deck.

At 120m long, it’s a swim-through experience that feels like you’re hovering in the inky blackness of a cave.

But a swing of your torch confirms you are indeed inside a wreck.

Paintwork is still visible through the marine growth and there’s hardware like valves and telephones.

It’s an easy weekend away for those living both north and south of Wide Bay, with plenty of accommodat­ion and dining options within walking distance of Urangan Harbour.

A double dive on the Tobruk can be combined with whale watching or a swim with the whales experience, which Hervey Bay Dive Centre also offers.

Coming eye to eye with a humpback whale in its environmen­t on its terms is certainly an experience you’ll never forget and well worth the effort of putting on a wetsuit.

A relaxing stroll down Charlton Esplanade, followed by sunset drinks at Enzo’s on the Beach or Aquavue Cafe, which also hires out kayaks and jetskis, is the perfect way to finish a day on and in the water.

Whatever water sport takes your fancy, you’ll have a whale of a time.

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