The Chronicle

IT’S TACO TIME

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SHEPHERDS’ TACOS

Like many capital cities, Mexico City is a place where cultures and people collide, and nowhere is this collision more clearly seen than in the city’s food. Tacos al pastor were the result of immigrants arriving from the Middle East in the 1960s, bringing with them lamb shawarma and gyros and, of course, the vertical grill. Once settled, the lamb was swapped for pork and beef, and Mexican spices and chillies, such as achiote and guajillo, were added. Pita breads became corn tortillas and a pineapple was added to the spit so the sweet juice could run down into the meat as it cooked.

Ingredient­s Makes 20

10g achiote paste (see note)

3½ tablespoon­s dried guajillo chilli powder 2 teaspoons table salt

50ml white vinegar

1kg boneless pork leg, 5mm thick slices 500g beef cheeks, cut into 5mm thick slices 2 white onions, thinly sliced

2 quantities tortilla dough or 40 small store-bought corn tortillas

¼ pineapple, peeled, cored, thinly sliced lime wedges to serve

Toppings

1 white onion, diced

25g chopped coriander leaves 300ml salsa taquera

Method

Place the achiote, chilli powder, salt and vinegar in the small bowl of a food processor and process to make a thick marinade.

Place the pork and beef cheek in a large bowl and rub the achiote marinade into the meat. Set aside in the fridge to marinate for at least 3 hours, but preferably overnight. Preheat the oven to 180C. Place the marinated pork and beef in a roasting tin in a single layer and add the onion in between the slices of meat. Cover the tin with foil, then place in the oven and roast for 1 hour.

Remove the roasting tin from the oven and discard the foil. Place the pineapple over the pork and beef and return the tin, uncovered, to the oven and roast for a further 30 minutes.

Once the pastor is ready, slice the meat as thinly as you can (like shaved kebab meat) and divide it among 20 double-thickness tortillas.

Top the tacos with the onion, coriander, roasted pineapple and salsa taquera. Serve with lime wedges on the side.

NOTE: Achiote - Sold in small blocks, this paste made from annatto seeds is often used to give a radiant colour and sour flavour to food. It is one of the signature ingredient­s of Yucatan cuisine.

Recipes extracted from Comida Mexicana by Rosa Cienfuegos, published by Smith Street Books, RRP$45. Photograph­y © Alicia Taylor, Food Stylist © Deborah Kaloper. https://www.smithstree­tbooks.com/books/ comida-mexicana/

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