The Chronicle

SEE IT ALL IN THREE DAYS

THE OUTBACK TO REEF TOUR COMBINES THE BEST OF QUEENSLAND INTO THREE GLORIOUS DAYS SO YOU NO LONGER HAVE TO CHOOSE JUST ONE DESTINATIO­N

- NARELLE BOUVENG

So much to see and never enough time; it’s difficult to decide whether to wander out west into the endless Queensland Outback or immerse instead in the fabled underwater kingdom of the Great Barrier Reef.

But what if I told you it’s possible to do both and in only three days?

“The highlight reel of Queensland” I’m informed as I check in at Gold Coast-based Sea Air Pacific before stepping on-board their sleek Cessna Grand Caravan C208B eager to embark on the new Outback to Reef Adventure.

It’s all pretty fancy, the private jet fitted with lamb's wool-swathed seats, big picture windows slung low under the wing and at the helm our pilot – Captain Kirk (not even kidding).

As one of only eight passengers on board the 13 seater, we’ve all scored a prized window seat and one guy has already dubbed our cosy cabin “the elevation lounge” in readiness for our 4000km-plus journey cruising at an especially scenic altitude of about 5000 feet.

First light is already glistening on the Gold Coast’s skyscraper­s as our flight path follows the beach before bending into the Broadwater where we spot turtles, rays and dugong in the shallows.

A wing dip over Moreton Island reveals a bird’s-eye view of the breathtaki­ng Tangalooma Wrecks and already I’ve chalked up a great day at barely 15 minutes in.

“Queensland’s a big place, and I’m running out of time to see it” the elevation lounge passenger quips.

While our party is mostly mature and agree the air touring option overcomes both the tyranny of distance and time, I can imagine my kids would also be in raptures to see Queensland this way.

Passing the Glasshouse Mountains craggy crests, I catch the distant peaks of the Great Dividing Range in the north, while underneath an enchanting tapestry of emerald forests, verdant farmlands and goldspangl­ed fields of wheat unfurl.

Each flying leg is no more than three hours, but we reach Charlevill­e in just over two; the red dirt carpet a telling sign Outback Queensland has begun.

There’s no fancy cafe to greet us in the outback, but Steve at Charlevill­e Airport puts on a morning tea spread that would make any member of the CWA proud.

Afterwards, a visit to the Royal Flying Doctors Museum is a chance to delve into nostalgic stories of open cockpit emergency dashes, and daring bush pilots.

It’s hallmarked however by the generosity of benefactor­s giving time, funds, properties and even planes on bequest in recognitio­n of the comfort the RFDS provides remote communitie­s in the bush.

Onward we propel into channel country, where the braided rivulets of The Cooper interlace like art.

It’s more famously known as the final resting place of explorers Burke and Wills but is also the second largest inland river system in Australia outside the Murray Darling.

I’m surprised to learn in times of plenty, rain from as far away as North Queensland flows all the way through here and into the basin of Lake Eyre.

Landscape nerds like me can watch the flight path reel in real time via iPads and when the coordinate­s for Birdsville pop on to my screen, I feel my heart skip.

The elusive town on my iconic Australia bucket-list is about to be ticked.

I quickly learn that pulling up in a plane in Birdsville is as regular as pulling up a stool at the bar, but nonetheles­s delight in having a reserved parking spot right beside the pub.

But there’s more to Birdsville than just the iconic local, including a trailblazi­ng geothermal power station pumping water at 98 degrees straight from the Artesian Basin.

The system generates enough electricit­y and water to power the town without reliance on diesel for generators.

Progress puts Birdsville at the forefront of Queensland’s clean energy movement, but for another clever use of the steam, walk downwind and turn your face back towards it for a unique outback facial.

We make it to the famed racecourse and learn how both the Birdsville Races and the Big Red Bash swell the town from a little over 100 to up to 7000 in just a matter of days.

But for now we have Big Red all to ourselves and gun it up the dunes in 4WDs to await sunset overlookin­g the spectacula­r Munga-Thirri-Simpson Desert, country of the Wangkankur­ru-Yarluyandi people.

It’s a cracker when it arrives, streaking the sky with pink and tangerine before igniting the sand in a glowing rose gold hue. Our cameras go wild.

Catching a glimpse of Big Red again the next morning, but this time dusted in early morning light, she is even more impressive from the air, her linear drift which carries on for miles forms a series of waves of sand dunes right across the land.

Recent rain has breathed vivid colour into the landscape, and everything is bursting with life.

When flying over Lake Marchetti clouds of birds create monochrome silhouette­s moving in synergy, an incredible sight from above against the chartreuse-hued lake waters beneath.

Today’s flight path follows the Diamantina River where we marvel at more intricate river braiding before crossing back towards The Cooper to follow its tributary, the Thomson all the way into Longreach.

It’s midmorning when we arrive, so there’s plenty of time to immerse in the cinema experience at The Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame, and after, let our parochial Aussie souls be stirred at the Qantas Founders Museum.

We learn the inspiring story of a band of bush pilots who dared to dream big enough, and in doing so, delivered Australia to the world on wings.

Night was spent by the flickering campfire with the Outback Pioneers listening to a barefoot bush poet while gobbling smoky beef

brisket before jumping on a double-decker bus to go roo spotting.

It’s late when we arrive back at luxurious Salt Bush Retreat whose curated collection of indulgent wood cabins and stables are fashioned like early settler huts but with plenty more creature comforts to enjoy.

A trilogy of outdoor claw foot baths is just one, and so hard to resist, so we soak for a while, nightcap in hand under the Southern Cross sparkling above.

Our final day leaves the rich russet colours of the outback behind to cross back into coastal country and on leaving land somewhere near the Tropic of Capricorn we revel in textures of coral, islets and sea gliding low over the beguiling Bunker Island group.

There really could be no more fitting finale than landing on a coral cay dotted right on the southern most tip of the Great Barrier Reef could there? So, we do.

The silence of the bush is erased by a cacophony of nesting sea bids engulfing us on arrival at Lady Elliot Island.

Thousands flock to the island’s sheltered forests and our presence is secondary to what they already have going on.

It’s the same when we don some flippers and drop into the luminescen­t aqua blue waters that surround the island in varying shades.

Turtle mating season is in ehm … full thrust … and while we try our best to focus on the coral gardens swarming with fish, we soon realise, if you are a female turtle, male turtles are simply not to be ignored.

It’s a fascinatin­g, in-our-face insight into what goes on in the natural world, and as guest voyeurs, an incredible privilege to step right inside this circle of life to not only watch, but feel its cycle in full giddy, glorious spin.

IF YOU GO

The three-day Outback to Reef Adventure departs and returns to Coolangatt­a Airport at nominated times throughout the touring season from June 2021 to October 2021. Cost is per passenger and inclusive of all flights, accommodat­ion, tours and entry fees. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks are included while on tour.

Single travellers are welcome with no additional supplement.

Priced from $3950 per person.

FOR MORE INFORMATIO­N GO TO WWW.SEAIRPACIF­IC.COM.AU

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