IO things to do in Buenos Aires
Argentina’s capital is a cosmopolitan mix of European-style elegance, Latin American brio and vibrant culture
1 Discover the tango
Take a walk through the Abasto barrio; birthplace of the tango. Dancer and historian Catalina Cabana will point out the bars and cafes frequented by Carlo Gardel, the godfather of the tango, his home and the murals of the revered singer, while explaining the evolution of Argentina’s most famous musical tradition. airbnb.com.au/experiences/172445
2 Visit the dead
Built in 1822, Recoleta Cemetery is a dazzling example of the immense wealth of the upper-class Portenos who lived and died in the city. A labyrinth of paths takes you past incredibly elaborate granite and marble crypts in art deco, art nouveau, baroque and neo-gothic architectural style, some the size of a small house. A big drawcard is the surprisingly modest tomb of Eva Peron. turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar
3 Browse a bookshop
Housed in a former theatre, El Ateneo Grand Splendid is one of the world’s most beautiful bookshops. The books are largely in Spanish, but it’s worth a visit for the elegance of the old theatre, designed by Pero and Torres Armengol in 1919. Make sure to look up at the frescoed domed roof and once you’ve finished browsing, have a coffee at the cafe on what was once the stage.
4 Eat at a parrilla
Join the meat-loving locals at a “parrilla” (steakhouse) like the famous Don Julio in hip and happening Palermo. Every piece of pampas-grass-fed meat is aged at least 21 days, before being cooked to juicy, smoky perfection. parrilladonjulio.com
5 Evoke Evita
In the city’s oldest square, Plaza de Mayo, Casa Rosada is the workplace of the country’s president. The pink hue that gives it its name is said to have been created by mixing the red and white of opposing political parties. It’s from the second-floor balcony that Juan Peron and his first lady, Eva, addressed the masses between 1946-52. Behind the palace, a museum details the history of the city from the time of the Spanish. casarosada.gob.ar
6 Shop for curios
Held Sundays from 10am, the Feria de San Telmo began in the 1970s as a small antique market and now boasts 250 booths of every type of vintage and collectable item imaginable, including mid-century furniture, clothing, artwork, glassware and vinyl records.
7 Get into a game
Join locals for a football game at the famous La Bombonera stadium, home ground of Boca Juniors. While tickets are only available to members with a season pass, you can book through an agency to which members loan their passes. If you don’t score tickets, a tour of the stadium is the next best thing. museoboquense.com/estadio-tour
8 Have tea and pastries
A feature of Buenos Aires is its French style cafe/bakeries/chocolatiers known a confiteria. The elegant Confiteria La Ideal recently reopened after more than five years of restoration. Enjoy pastries, cakes and chocolate, all made inhouse, under a vast, gold-leaf ceiling and lit by sparkling chandeliers. www.laideal.ar 9 Take in a show
One of the best and oldest tango shows is at San Telmo’s intimate El Querandi cafe, covering a musical history of the tango, with lavish costumes and dance routines. querandi.com.ar
10 Stroll El Caminito
A street of colourful tenement houses built in the 19th century by Italian immigrants, El Caminito was largely abandoned until the 1950s when local artist Benito Quinquela Martin began repainting them in primary colours. Take a walking tour in English for a deeper history. buenosairesfreewalks.com/la-boca-tour