FULL OF ZEST

THIS TANGY TREAT, BASED ON A TIMELESS RECIPE, COULD LEAD TO DAILY CRAVINGS

Claudia Roden’s celebrated orange-cake recipe was first published more than 50 years ago. It has since been plundered, plagiarised and praised across the culinary firmament. Its bittersweet intensity is utterly delicious and as compelling today as ever. Ms Roden’s cake comes from a Middle-Eastern kitchen, whereas the yoghurt cake originates in French country cuisine: light, lactic and friable. The addition of syrup after baking lends a citrus lift that contrasts with the jamminess of its famous cousin. I have had equal success with lemon, mandarin and grapefruit. I reckon I could eat any of them every day for the next 50 years.