The Courier-Mail - QWeekend

CULTURE CLUB

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Sweetshop Specialty Coffee’s Brisket Benny and, right, the gorgeous-looking ricotta and sage gnocchi. Pictures: Mark Cranitch.

on a brioche bun. The accessible-yet-elegant approach continues into the classic Eggs Benny ($21), this time elevated with brisket. Those deliciousl­y gnarly outer bits of the beef join the supple inside parts on a slice of jalapeno-laced cornbread, then are showered with whole cloves of confit garlic and a lick of hollandais­e sauce, under a blanket of runny-centred poached eggs. It’s executed with finesse and is substantia­l without being overwhelmi­ng.

As for that beautiful plate of ricotta and sage gnocchi ($19), after a quick grind of salt, it’s just as tasty as it is glamorous.

Also recording top marks is Sweetshop’s

house-made “The Cuban” smoothie: thick and refreshing­ly tart, with banana, pineapple, papaya, apple and coconut water.

It’s just what you want to sip in the breezy indoor-outdoor eatery, cooled by bi-fold windows and doors as the sun belts down outside.

The only hiccup at Sweetshop is with the service. While the floor staff are very kind, there’s an aloofness to the owner that’s slightly off-putting. In this time of global pandemics and uncertaint­y, there’s no time for haughtines­s.

That aside, Sweetshop is a suburban cafe that’s batting above the average.

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