The Courier-Mail - QWeekend

In the line of beauty

Why go for average when breakfast can be fine-tuned into a work of art?

- Review ANOOSKA TUCKER-EVANS

Acurled onion petal pools with a shimmering green puddle, like a leaf holding water after rain. Pan-fried ricotta and sage gnocchi rest like tiny pebbles in a puree of eggplant, with a scattering of za’atar akin to soil falling into every crevasse; while a snow pea tendril twists and twirls over the top.

This is, unquestion­ably, one of the prettiest breakfasts I’ve sat down to in a long time.

Mistakeabl­e for an entree at one of Brisbane’s best restaurant­s, it’s from the new autumn menu at contempora­ry and minimalist cafe Sweetshop Specialty Coffee, in the leafy suburb of Bardon in Brisbane’s west.

While the eatery may have started with an intense focus on coffee – serving well-made Seven Seeds from Victoria as the house blend, complement­ed by a rotating line-up of harderto-find guest roasters from across Australia, which may include the likes of Perth’s Offshoot or Sydney’s Ickle for espresso and Brisbane’s Passport for filter – the new food menu may be just ready to steal the show.

In addition to the cabinet of Brisbane’s acclaimed Crust & Co pastries and house-made cakes there is an all-day line-up of brunch treats with options that are just a bit fancy, but not intimidati­ngly so.

Take the salmon gravlax ($21), starring house-cured salmon, confit fennel, a poached egg, dijon creme fraiche and beurre noisette on rye. Or perhaps the humble brisket burger ($18), pimped up with a coffee butter and za’atar mayo

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