Fragrant flight of fancy

As a pandemic travel solution, a Brisbane restaurant offers a passport to Asia

Can’t go to Asia? No matter, lockdowns allowing, hotfoot it to Paddington and take yourself on a journey. Slip onto the crimson banquette that runs the length of the wall in the long finger of a restaurant that is Given Kitchen & Bar. Close your eyes and travel, perhaps assisted by an Along the Mekong, a mojito scented with mint, lemongrass and ginger, to a pan-Asian street food dinner cooked over coals in the kitchen a couple of metres from the tables.

This venture – with “crying tiger” tacos of rump with tamarind, grilled corn coated in spicy Korean dukbokki sauce, barbecued chicken with lime and chilli and duck breast doused with red curry – is a sibling enterprise to the popular casual Vietnamese eatery Ngon, which opened in 2019 just a skewer toss further down Given Terrace towards Suncorp Stadium in the innerwestern suburb.

Given Kitchen & Bar has a low-key fit-out, with chunky wooden furniture on the pavement, bare tables, artful dried flowers and a laid-back atmosphere aided by a DJ chowing down on a taco while spinning some vinyl – James Brown and Joe Jackson to begin with on the night we’re there – just by the kitchen. Our waitress is terrific too, she’s cheerful and observant, with interesting, relevant chit chat about the menu.

Given’s drinks list features four offerings from Maleny’s Brouhaha among its craft beers, a smart wine list with a focus on small independent producers from Europe and Australia, mainly Australian spirits and a wide array of cocktails, including a Vietnamese espresso martini, and mocktails.

The food, which picks and chooses a variety of Asian influences, is a match for its laid-back surrounds, fresh and cheerful and forged from a suite of ingredients that pack a punch. Kinilaw