SIM­PLE WAYS VEG TO OUT

TO­BIE PUT­TOCK PLANTS THE SEED FOR EASY MEAT-FREE MEALS, WRITES DAN STOCK

The Courier-Mail - - FRONT PAGE -

New year, a new res­o­lu­tion to “eat bet­ter”.

And for an in­creas­ing num­ber of Aus­tralians, that means giv­ing up eat­ing meat.

But, like with so many things promised when the clock chimed mid­night a fort­night ago, once we’re back to work and the kids back at school, it’s so easy for good in­ten­tions to fall by the way­side in the day-to-day hus­tle of fam­ily life.

Celebrity chef To­bie Put­tock, renowned for work­ing with Jamie Oliver, spent the first 20 years of his ca­reer butcher­ing, cook­ing and eat­ing ev­ery type of an­i­mal in restau­rants around the world but now eats a pre­dom­i­nantly plant-based diet.

He has one key piece of ad­vice for those look­ing to swap snags for cele­riac and lamb for legumes this year.

“If you say, next week we’re go­ing ve­gan and chuck out all your an­i­mal prod­ucts you’re doomed to fail,” he says. “Just start re­plac­ing one thing at a time.”

He says sum­mer is a great time to start ex­per­i­ment­ing with go­ing meat-free.

“I would say one to two nights go meat-free,” he says. “Cook a main veg­etable – whole roasted cau­li­flower with romesco sauce, say. You could add a small bit of meat to the side, if you need, be­fore leav­ing it out all to­gether.”

To help the home cook in cre­at­ing these veg­etable-based dishes, Put­tock has writ­ten his fifth cook­book Su­per­Nat­u­ral that he says “just hap­pens to be ve­gan”.

“The idea was to cre­ate an ac­ces­si­ble ap­proach to us­ing veg­eta­bles. I didn’t want to do a ve­gan book for ve­gans.

It’s not about ‘meat is bad, eat a ve­gan diet’ but more like, here’s some in­ter­est­ing ways to eat veg­gies.”

It’s a grow­ing move­ment – peo­ple who are con­sciously eat­ing less meat but don’t com­pletely omit it from their diet.

This semi-veg­e­tar­i­an­ism is known as a flex­i­tar­ian diet that peo­ple usu­ally adopt for en­vi­ron­men­tal and sus­tain­abil­ity rea­sons – though it really just means eat­ing mainly veg­eta­bles.

And it’s prov­ing pop­u­lar with al­most all de­mo­graph­ics, with Taste.com.au see­ing in­creases of up to 167 per cent in peo­ple search­ing for veg­e­tar­ian recipes, while Aus­tralia ranked No.1 in the world for ve­gan searches on Google last year.

“I still eat meat – I just eat a hell of a lot less than I used to,” Put­tock says.

“It’s about re­duc­ing our im­pact on the planet. We know if we re­duce the amount of meat we eat it’s bet­ter for us. There are cer­tain can­cers ve­gans just don’t get – so it’s bet­ter for our health.

“Be­com­ing a full ve­gan is no mean feat, but imag­ine how much dif­fer­ence it would make if ev­ery­one just ate a bit less meat and dairy.”

While many fall into an all-or-noth­ing ap­proach, Put­tock says to­day’s Mil­len­ni­als put no pres­sure on them­selves to eat a wholly plant-based diet.

“They’ll hap­pily eat a mush­room burger then on a Sat­ur­day night have a minute steak with gor­gonzola sauce.”

NAT­U­RAL BEAUTY

He says the first step in chang­ing our think­ing around ve­g­an­ism is to look at veg­eta­bles in their nat­u­ral state and work up from there.

“All this pro­duce is so beau­ti­ful, why can’t we change the men­tal­ity of how we cook ve­gan food a bit? Why can’t we cook beet­root like a piece of meat, and have sides along with that?” he says.

“Veg­e­tar­ian prod­ucts at the su­per­mar­ket look like sci­ence ex­per­i­ments with all the num­bers on the back, mim­ick­ing meat – there are no veg­eta­bles even in there,” he says. “And ve­gan books (at the time) were all about that hippy food, piles of dal, piles of rice, that sort of thing.”

Put­tock says he’s no­ticed a change in the past year in how veg­eta­bles are ap­proached by home cooks and pro­fes­sional chefs alike.

“When you get the likes of Rene (Redzepi) of Noma get­ting on board, you know things are chang­ing,” Put­tock says. “He said some­thing that really gelled with me. ‘The veg­etable menu at Noma was by far the hard­est thing they’ve ever tack­led, but that he’s had a taste of the fu­ture by do­ing it.’”

SPICE IS RIGHT

Spices are ev­ery­thing to veg­e­tar­ian and ve­gan cook­ing, Put­tock says.

“They are your best friend and will al­low you to make sim­ple dishes with just a few in­gre­di­ents that are in­cred­i­bly lay­ered and com­plex in flavour.”

Some of the main­stays in the Put­tocks’ pantry in­clude car­damom, chilli flakes, ground cin­na­mon, co­rian­der seeds, cumin, fen­nel, pa­prika and whole nut­meg.

“You need to get your head around herbs and spices with this type of food, oth­er­wise it can be bor­ing. That’s really im­por­tant.”

FRESH FLAVOURS

While fresh is best when it comes to dress­ing dishes with herbs, un­less you are cut­ting what you need from the gar­den, there’ll of­ten be left­overs that will be wasted.

Put­tock rec­om­mends lay­ing out those ex­cess leaves on a tray lined with bak­ing paper then leav­ing in a warm part of the kitchen to dry out.

“You can then keep them in zip-lock bags or crush them and store in jars to be used through the bases of sauces for added flavour.”

The herbs ev­ery­one should have grow­ing at home in­clude basil, co­rian­der, dill, mint, both curly and flat leaf pars­ley and tar­ragon.

DO THE CAN CAN

“You can, of course, use dried beans of all va­ri­eties, but, to be hon­est, I al­most al­ways use canned at home,” Put­tock says.

“You’ve got to make it easy for peo­ple, and canned beans are ready to rock in sec­onds and don’t need to be soaked overnight.”

Canned beans and legumes like chick­peas, lentils, and kid­ney and black beans can then be used to make ev­ery­thing from falafel-style pat­ties to bulked out sal­ads, soups, dips and even gluten-free brown­ies. They pro­vide a ter­rific source of pro­tein and fi­bre and are ex­tremely cheap.

WE CAN BE HE­ROES

Put­tock says the best way to cre­ate sat­is­fy­ing veg­etable dishes is to “hero one in­gre­di­ents and then build the plate around that”. Oven-roasted beet­root, is one such ex­am­ple. “Now look at the flavours that go with that. Horse­rad­ish goes well. Then, cavolo nero goes well with horse­rad­ish,” he says.

Now you have the ba­sis for a great main dish without meat.

VEG PLEDGE

Other veg­eta­bles Put­tock sug­gests putting on ro­ta­tion on the din­ner ta­ble in­clude cele­riac, which you can roast whole, cab­bage, and cau­li­flower – ei­ther roasted whole or cut into “steaks” and grilled.

“Pump­kin has re­placed roast lamb in our house. Slice it, stuff if full of bread, dried fruits and nuts and roast it really slowly. It’s fan­tas­tic,” he says.

“If you show enough love to any veg­etable you can trans­form it into some­thing that’s worth cham­pi­oning in the mid­dle of the plate.”

THE NUTTY PRO­FES­SOR

Nuts are an in­te­gral part of mak­ing meat-free dishes sat­is­fy­ing and fill­ing.

Put­tock says lin­seeds, pepi­tas (pump­kin seeds), poppy seeds and sun­flower seeds are great to have to hand, along with al­monds, pis­ta­chios, pecans and wal­nuts.

These can be used to bol­ster sal­ads and en­liven roasted veg­eta­bles, adding tex­ture along with the min­er­als, vi­ta­mins, iron and pro­tein you’d usu­ally re­ceive in your diet from eat­ing meat.

Try lightly toasted sliv­ered al­monds over honey-roasted car­rots, sun­flower seeds blended into a sa­tay-style puree to be served with cau­li­flower, pepi­tas scat­tered atop baked pump­kin with nat­u­ral yo­ghurt, or sun­flower seeds tossed through a salad of buck­wheat, toma­toes, mint, pars­ley, cos let­tuce and roasted cau­li­flower and broc­coli.

HEMP DAY

Hemp seeds – which have been legally sold as a food prod­uct for the past year – are a nutri­tional pow­er­house, Put­tock says, along with be­ing an en­vi­ron­men­tally friendly, pest-re­sis­tant crop.

“Hemp is a com­plete pro­tein, con­tain­ing all nine es­sen­tial amino acids and is high in fi­bre, vi­ta­min E and min­er­als, as well as hav­ing a rare op­ti­mum ra­tio of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids.”

They have a flavour and tex­ture sim­i­lar to cashews or macadamias and can be eaten in sal­ads, smooth­ies or as a top­ping for yo­ghurt.

You could also try blitz­ing them with other nuts and med­jool dates to form pro­tein balls or a no-bake base for slices and tarts. They also can be pureed with fresh herbs to make a pesto, or mixed into baked goods.

GET FREEKEH

Put­tock reck­ons freekeh (pro­nounced free-kah) is a great grain to use for build­ing sal­ads as it is both flavour­some and nu­tri­tious – low GI, low fat, a good source of pro­tein, iron, cal­cium and zinc.

“Freekeh can pro­vide greater sati­ety after eat­ing than other grains due to its high fi­bre lev­els – twice as much as quinoa and three times as much as brown rice,” Put­tock says.

It loves Mid­dle Eastern-type flavours like pomegranate, cau­li­flower, pis­ta­chio and figs, and is also great with roasted pump­kin or beet­root, and fresh herbs. Try dress­ing it with lemon juice and olive oil or tahini and yo­ghurt.

GO FULL TURM

Turmeric is a ver­sa­tile spice that’s long been used in Ayurvedic medicine for its an­tiox­i­dant and anti-in­flam­ma­tory prop­er­ties, Put­tock says. Re­cent stud­ies sug­gest com­bin­ing turmeric with black pep­per in­creases the ben­e­fits of both spices.

“That’s why it’s great to com­bine the two in recipes such as the scram­bled chick­peas (see recipe),” he says.

They can also be added into cur­ries and soups, used to jazz up quinoa or rice, or form a crust on cau­li­flower.

VEG OUT: Make beet­root a hero like in this salad with pears; To­bie Put­tock is com­mit­ted to eat­ing less meat for health and the planet; tahini rice pat­ties are a great al­ter­na­tive to tra­di­tional ris­soles, and canned chick­peas are pimped up in this salad with roasted cau­li­flower. Pic­tures: Taste.com.au

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