Wright mindset to return to bigger surf
“PEOPLE will just push and push and push until something breaks.” That’s what Owen Wright told the Gold Coast Bulletin of surfers testing their limits while in Tahiti in 2015. Wright had no idea he would cop a devastating brain injury just three months later. The world title contender was rattled in pounding whitewash at Pipeline in Hawaii, which caused bleeding on his brain.
Cruelly, Wright hadn’t even been riding a wave – he was paddling out when the accident occurred.
Now, after spending 12 months recovering physically he will return to bigger surf in West Australia ahead of the next stop in the World Surf League Championship Tour next week. All this after his phenomenal return to competition with victory at the Quiksilver Pro.
“They’re all challenges I have to process and get through, getting back into solid waves is one of them,” said the 27-year-old.
“Which is part of stretching myself back out.
“I wanted to do it before (the Quiksilver Pro) so I could start the year with that ticked off but that didn’t happen, there were no swells around.”
Wright said he was going to head to Margaret River in WA earlier than usual to steel himself in big waves before he pulls on a competition jersey.
“Hopefully Margies is eight to 10 feet (3m) like it always is and I get some waves to break through that barrier,” Wright said.
“As far as my health goes I’m assured I’m 100 per cent OK and there’s no physical danger, it’s just a mental challenge.
“I can’t wait to get back to Fiji and Tahiti. I’m a little nervous about Pipe though, but I’m really excited about those two.”