SEA CHANGE
Luring one of the region’s most talented chefs has taken this easy, breezy Palm Beach eatery to the next level, writes Chantay Logan
WHILE I’m not normally one of those foodies who “follow the chef ”, Chris Harrington warrants at least a little low-key surveillance.
The quietly accomplished kitchen master (London’s Michelin Star The Greenhouse, Byron’s St Elmo) won me over at laidback Lennox eatery Foam, so I was excited to see him surface closer to home at 8th Ave Terrace.
Chris’ monthly menus are taking the already impressive Palm Beach eatery to the next level.
The spring selection burst with light, bright flavour. It’s an effortless fit for the breezy beachside dining room, which enjoys water views across the rooftops.
Echo the ocean outlook with scallops hand plucked from Port Phillip Bay ($22). Harmoniously packed into each pink-rimmed shell is the sweetness of corn puree, salty pop of pork bubble and dash of dashi for that umami element.
Move on to earthy duck confit and mushroom tortellini ($20) dishing up a herbaceous hit of neon green parsley emulsion, chased by a hint of truffle paste.
A contrasting coating of panko crumbs underlines the airy quality of twice-baked goat’s cheese souffle ($28). The rich main course is served with baked beets and macadamia oil.
If I could subsist on smell alone I’d go home satisfied after a whiff of the coconut laksa that infuses the char-grilled Moreton Bay bugs ($36).
Dessert of pineapple tarte tatin ($16) tastes like an Aussie summer, with lots of caramelised flavour, toasty roasted coconut and rum syrup. The creme fraîche gelato scooped on top is something special.
Beer and wine drinkers are well catered to, but it’s on the thoroughly original cocktail list that the team have really had some fun.
The well-balanced potions range from a beetroot blend with a baby carrot resting on the rim to a fig, violet and gin fusion with a sticky, sweet dollop of plum jam.
While there’s so much here for foodies to sink their teeth into, those less likely to froth over bubbles and emulsions should be equally satisfied by the eatery’s energy and good vibes. There’s no pretension, just plenty of passion. Mid-week degustation menus (Monday to Thursday) represent particularly good value, with three courses for $45 or five for $65.
Chris’ arrival isn’t the only change at 8th Ave Terrace, with the operating hours recently extended to seven days to make the most of warm days and balmy nights on the balcony.
8th Ave Terrace, 31/1176 Gold Coast Highway, Palm Beach, open weekdays from 4pm and from noon on weekends.