VINE DINING

It’s easy being green on the Gold Coast with another excellent plant-powered eatery joining the growing meat-free movement

THE MILKMAN’S DAUGHTER 43 ALFRED STREET, MERMAID BEACH

Open: Weekdays 7am — 2.30pm, weekends 7am — 3pm

IN the magic world they’d be called masters of misdirection.

They’re the vegetarian eateries creating dishes so beguilingly beautiful you’re too distracted to notice your meal is missing meat. In that vein, The Milkman’s Daughter is Morgan Walsh (Poké Poké and FuFu) and partner Mary Steel’s first foray into the Coast’s thriving plant-powered culinary culture.

Featuring fare bursting with colour, rich in texture and not shy of a little spice, it’s equally a feast for the eyes.

Morgan’s flair for fit-outs ensures the relatively compact space is packed with the personality it’s been missing since its glory days as Vintage Espresso under Andrew Whiting. From succulent terrarium gardens set into coffee tables to vine-draped arches and a flower-pot-lined windowsill, there’s a cute nook everywhere you look.

We order at the streetside counter before curling up in one of the cushion-crammed concrete igloos to warm frozen fingers around cups of fragrant peppermint tea. Good coffee too. An all-day breakfast menu is devoted to abundantly portioned cafe classics, with multiple elements delivering your money’s worth.

Seasonal comfort comes in the form of creamy garlic mushrooms with asparagus on toast ($17), truffled breakfast risotto with a slow-cooked egg ($18) and creamy mixed berry porridge with candied nuts ($14). With Morgan recently selling her original venture Bonita Bonita, breakfast tacos ($17) are a chance to get your tortilla fix. The crispy hashbrown filling is heaped with a smoky corn puree, scrambled eggs, salsa and sour cream. I tacked on a side of haloumi ($4). If you prefer a sweet start, tackle the sizeable stack of lemon ricotta pancakes smothered in custard and sprinkled with candied walnuts and peach ($17).

Lunch, also available all day, includes nachos with the works ($18), corn fritters with coriander, avocado salsa and spiced coconut yoghurt ($18) and a grain salad of spiced kofta, crispy kale, beetroot chutney, hummus and pita bread ($17).

Factor in bright service (and Martha Stewart worthy muffins working the window counter) and The Milkman’s Daughter is exactly the friendly face you want to see in the morning.