Leaves in the Wa­ter

A mod­ern leaf mo­tif stands out beau­ti­fully against a gra­di­ent back­ground on this smart cardigan

The Knitter - - Contents - An­drea Ran­gel

In­tri­cate Fair Isle cardigan

PAT­TERN NOTES

The sweater is worked bot­tom-up in the round. The body and sleeves are worked sep­a­rately and then joined to work the raglan yoke. Steek stitches are worked at the cen­tre front through­out the body and yoke. Be­cause V-neck shap­ing is worked with the steek, the neck hole will be very small be­fore cut­ting. After com­plet­ing the yoke, the steek is re­in­forced and cut to open the cen­tre front, then stitches are picked up for ribbed band. Un­der­arms are joined us­ing the three-nee­dle cast-off.

SLEEVES (make 2) CUFF

Us­ing 3.5mm nee­dles and yarn A, cast on 60 ( 64: 68: 72: 76: 76). Pm and join to work in the round, be­ing care­ful not to twist sts. Rnd 1: *K2, P2; rep from * to end. Rep Rnd 1 un­til ribbed cuff meas 5 ( 5 :6 : 7: 8 : 9) cm from cast-on. At end of last round, M1. 61 ( 65: 69: 73: 77: 77) sts.

COLOUR­WORK SLEEVE

Change to 4mm nee­dles and join in yarn B. Note: Sleeve shap­ing and charted colour­work are worked at the same time. Read fol­low­ing sec­tions be­fore pro­ceed­ing. Colour­work Chart Dur­ing the first round of colour­work, work to last stitch in colour­work pat­tern, then M1 in colour pat­tern. This ad­di­tional stitch is ac­counted for and al­lows for pat­tern sym­me­try. 62 ( 66: 70: 74: 78: 78) sts. Through­out Sleeve, end ev­ery round with a yarn A stitch which is not shown on the chart. This stitch will cre­ate a ‘seam’ line all the way up the in­side of the Sleeve. Rnd 1: Beg with st 12 ( 10: 8: 12: 10: 10) of Chart, work to end of Chart, then work 12-st pat­tern re­peat 5 ( 5: 5: 6: 6: 6) times across round, then work - ( 2: 4:-:2: 2) sts in Chart, end­ing Chart on st 12 ( 2: 4: 12: 2: 2), K1A. Cont as set, work to end of Round 9( 9: 7: 5: 3: 3).

SHAPE SLEEVE

Note: When work­ing in­creases, use colour cor­re­spond­ing to the new stitch cre­ated, to keep patt cor­rect. Inc rnd: LIR, work in chart to last st, LIL, K1A. 2 sts inc’d. Work In­crease Rnd ev­ery 10th ( 10th: 8th: 6th: 4th: 4th) rnd 9 ( 9: 13: 15: 15: 27) more times, then ev­ery 12th ( 12th:–:8th: 6th:–) rnd 1 ( 1:–:2: 8:–) times. 84 ( 88: 98: 110: 126: 134) sts. Work 13 more rnds with­out shap­ing, end­ing after 125 rnds of Chart. Next round: Work in pat­tern to last 2 sts, s2kpo in yarn B with the last 2 sts of the rnd and the first st of the next rnd (re­mov­ing marker). 2 sts dec’d. 82 ( 86: 96: 108: 124: 132) sts. Place the last 8 ( 8: 9: 9: 11: 11) sts worked and the next 7 ( 7: 8: 8: 10: 10) sts of the round on waste yarn for each un­der­arm. 15 ( 15: 17: 17: 21: 21) to­tal sts on waste yarn for un­der­arms. Set sleeves aside and work body.

BODY HEM

Us­ing 3.5mm cir­cu­lar nee­dles, 80cm long,

and yarn A, cast on 239 ( 271: 299: 331: 359: 391). Pm and join for work­ing in the round, be­ing care­ful not to twist sts. Rnd 1: *K2, P2; rep from * to last 7 sts, K2, pm, K5 (steek sts). Re­peat Rnd 1 (omit­ting plac­ing marker as it’s al­ready in place) un­til ribbed hem meas 4 cm from cast-on.

COLOUR­WORK BODY

Change to 4mm cir­cu­lar nee­dles, 80cm long, and join in yarn B. Dur­ing the first round of colour­work, M1 at about cen­tre back in colour­work pat­tern. This ad­di­tional stitch is ac­counted for on chart and al­lows for pat­tern sym­me­try. 240 ( 272: 300: 332: 360: 392) sts. Rnd 1: Beg with st 9 ( 11: 9: 11: 9: 11) of Chart, work to end of Chart, then work 12-st pat­tern re­peat 19 ( 22: 24: 27: 29: 32) times across round, then work 3 ( 1: 3: 1: 3: 1) sts in Chart, end­ing Chart on st 3 ( 1: 3: 1: 3: 1), then work­ing 5-st steek chart. Cont as set un­til you have worked rnds 1–36 of chart 3 times in to­tal. Body meas about 37 cm from cast-on.

YOKE

JOIN BODY AND SLEEVES Change to 100cm or 120cm cir­cu­lar nee­dles Join­ing rnd: K1 in A. Beg with st 10 ( 12: 10: 12: 10: 12) of Chart, work 46 ( 54: 60: 68: 73: 81) sts, end­ing with st 7 ( 5: 9: 7: 10: 8) of Chart, K1 in A, pm (Right Front Raglan), place next 15 ( 15: 17: 17: 21: 21) body sts on waste yarn for un­der­arm. From first sleeve, K2 in A. Beg at st 11 ( 9: 5: 5: 11: 7) of Chart, work 63 ( 67: 75: 87: 99: 107) sts, end­ing at st 1 ( 3: 7: 7: 1: 5) of Chart, K2 in A, pm (Right Back Raglan). Work­ing on body stitches, K1 in A. Beg at st 1 ( 11: 5: 3: 10: 8) of Chart, work 107 ( 123: 135: 151: 161: 177) sts, end­ing at st 11 ( 1: 7: 9: 2: 4) of Chart, K1 in A, pm (Left Back Raglan), place next 15 ( 15: 17: 17: 21: 21) body sts on waste yarn for un­der­arm. From sec­ond sleeve, K2 in A. Beg at st 11 ( 9: 5: 5: 11: 7) of Chart, work 63 ( 67: 75: 87: 99: 107) sts, end­ing at st 1 ( 3: 7: 7: 1: 5) of Chart, K2 in A, pm (Left Front Raglan). Work­ing on Left Front, K1 in A. Beg at st 5 ( 7: 3: 5: 2:4) of Chart, work 46 ( 54: 60: 68: 73: 81) sts, end­ing at st 2 ( 12: 2: 12: 2: 12) of Chart, K1 in A. Slm, work 5-st steek panel. 344 ( 384: 424: 480: 524: 572) sts; 48 ( 56: 62: 70: 75: 83) sts each Front, 67 ( 71: 79: 91: 103: 111) sts each Sleeve, 109 ( 125: 137: 153: 163: 179) sts Back, and 5 steek sts. After join­ing, place a re­mov­able marker in the first stitch of the round. This marks the lo­ca­tion of the top but­ton. Leave it in place for the re­main­der of the project.

SHAPE YOKE

Note: Yoke shap­ing and charts are worked AT THE SAME TIME. Read through the next sec­tion be­fore pro­ceed­ing. Neck­line, Front and Back Armholes, and Sleeve Caps are shaped at dif­fer­ent rates. The stitches di­rectly next to stitch

mark­ers are al­ways worked in yarn A, in­clud­ing de­creases, and th­ese stitches are not shown on the chart. On Sleeve Caps, the first 2 stitches after the marker and the last 2 stitches be­fore the marker are al­ways worked in yarn A, and th­ese are not shown on the chart. When shap­ing is nec­es­sary on the Fronts (neck­line and armholes) and Back (armholes), SSK in yarn A the 2 sts di­rectly after the marker and K2­tog in yarn A the last 2 stitches be­fore the marker. When shap­ing is nec­es­sary on the sleeves, (K1 in A, SSK in A) after the marker, and (K2­tog in A, K1 in A) be­fore the marker. With this method the raglan de­creases are al­ways sep­a­rated by 1 yarn A stitch. V-neck shap­ing: De­crease ev­ery 4th ( 4th: 4th: 4th: 2nd: 2nd) rnd 13 ( 14: 15: 19: 2: 5) times, then ev­ery 6th ( 6th: 6th:–:4th:4th) rnd 2 ( 2: 2:–:19: 18) times. 15 ( 16: 17: 19: 21: 23) to­tal neck­line de­crease rnds worked.

FRONTS AND BACK ARMHOLE SHAP­ING

De­crease ev­ery rnd 0 ( 2: 5: 9: 10: 15) times, then ev­ery other rnd 13 ( 32 ( 31: 29: 30: 26) times, then ev­ery 4th rnd 3 ( 0: 0: 0: 0: 0) times, then ev­ery other rnd 13 ( 0: 0: 0: 0: 0) times, then ev­ery rnd 0 ( 2: 5: 9: 10: 15) times. 29 ( 36: 41: 47: 50: 56) to­tal de­crease rnds worked.

SLEEVE CAP SHAP­ING

De­crease ev­ery rnd 0 ( 0: 0: 0: 3: 6) times, then ev­ery other rnd 9 ( 10: 13: 37: 37: 35) times, then ev­ery 4th rnd 7 ( 7: 5: 0: 0: 0) times, then ev­ery other rnd 9 ( 10: 13: 0: 0: 0) times, then ev­ery rnd 0 ( 0: 0: 0: 3: 6) times. 25 ( 27: 31: 37: 43: 47) to­tal sleeve de­crease rnds worked. After all shap­ing is com­plete, 98 ( 100: 102: 106: 110: 114) sts re­main; 4 each Front, 17 each Sleeve, 51 ( 53: 55: 59: 63: 67) Back, and 5 steek sts. Cast-off rnd: With yarn A, K1, sk2po, pass knit st over de­creased st, thus cast­ing it off; cast off in this man­ner to 4 sts be­fore last mrk (be­fore steek panel), K3­tog, pass st over to cast off, cast off to end.

FIN­ISH­ING CUT STEEK

Re­in­force steek us­ing cro­chet or ma­chine sew­ing. Cut steek to open cardigan front. For more guid­ance on steek­ing, see our Master­class in Is­sue 116 or on­line at: www.theyarnloop.com/ar­ti­cle/top-tips­for-steek-suc­cess

RIBBED BAND

Note: Pick up stitches for band by in­sert­ing nee­dle be­tween a leg of a body stitch and a leg of a steek stitch, then draw­ing yarn through. This will cause the steek stitches to nat­u­rally fold to the in­side of the sweater and not be vis­i­ble from the RS. Us­ing 3.5mm cir­cu­lar nee­dles, 100cm or 120cm long, and yarn A, beg at bot­tom of Right Front (RS fac­ing), pick up a mul­ti­ple 64 of 4 + 2 sts from bot­tom Right Front along Right V-Neck shap­ing, across Back sts, down Left V-Neck shap­ing, and down Left Front. Pick-up rate is about 2 sts for ev­ery 3 rows along Hems, 3 sts for ev­ery 4 rows along ver­ti­cal colour­work sec­tions (Fronts), and 1 st for ev­ery cast-off stitch (along Back Neck­line). Rib­bing row 1 (WS): *P2, K2; rep from * to last 2 sts, P2. Rib­bing row 2: *K2, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. Re­peat Rows 1–2 once more.

BUTTONHOLE BAND

Be­fore work­ing next row, place re­mov­able stitch mark­ers on nee­dle to mark where but­ton­holes will be worked. Place re­mov­able mark­ers on Right Front, 8 sts from beg of row, and ad­ja­cent to the marker that was placed after the Body/Sleeves join­ing round. Place an­other marker at the half­way point be­tween th­ese mark­ers, then ad­di­tional mark­ers evenly spaced be­tween the mark­ers present. Five mark­ers in place in to­tal. Buttonhole row (WS): *Work in es­tab­lished 2x2 rib pat­tern to mrk, re­move mrk, Sl 2 pwise wyib, pass first st over 2nd st, (Sl 1 pwise, psso) twice, slip st from right nee­dle back to left nee­dle, turn, bring yarn to back and cast on 4 sts us­ing the cable cast-on, turn, bring yarn to back, Sl 1 pwise, pass last cast-on st over slipped st; rep from * for each buttonhole, work in pat­tern to end. Work Rib­bing Row 2. Work Rib­bing Rows 1–2 once more, then work Rib­bing Row 1 once more. Cast off all sts in pat­tern.

FI­NAL FIN­ISH­ING

Turn sweater in­side out and join un­der­arm stitches us­ing the three-nee­dle bind-off. Use yarn ends to close any holes at edges of un­der­arms. Weave in ends and block to mea­sure­ments shown on block­ing di­a­gram, fol­low­ing any yarn care in­struc­tions on the ball band. Pin the bot­tom edges of the bands to help them re­lax and line up with the hem. Once sweater is dry, line up front bands and place five re­mov­able mark­ers on the left band where the but­ton­holes fall. Sew but­tons onto left front band, us­ing the re­mov­able mark­ers as guides for place­ment.

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