Gilda

Fab­u­lous Fair Isle and neat fin­ish­ing touches make this yoked cardi­gan feel ex­tra-spe­cial

The Knitter - - Gilda - Mary Hen­der­son

A CHEER­FUL colour pal­ette has been used for this pretty Fair Isle cardi­gan. The yoked de­sign is knit­ted in the round with steeks that are cut open and re­in­forced. It uses Nordic Wool from Novita, which of­fers ex­cel­lent stitch def­i­ni­tion.

PAT­TERN NOTES STITCH COUNTS

When work­ing the stranded bor­der and yoke, 1 or 3 ex­tra sts are worked to cre­ate bal­ance for the mo­tif. These are shown on the chart out­side of the re­peat box. The steek for the bor­der and yoke are worked at the end of each round. Change colour at the end of the steek, not in the cen­tre, and carry colours not in use up the side. Colour changes mid-steek could desta­bilise the steek and cre­ate weak­ness. Note on work­ing cor­ru­gated rib in rows: On RS, hold the knit stitch colour in your left hand, and the purl stitch colour in your right hand. On WS, hold the knit stitch colour (back­ground colour) in your left hand, and the purl stitch colour (main colour) in your right hand. This en­sures the strand­ing is con­sis­tent, so the rib will be even.

CHART NOTE

Turn to page 8 for the charts (the back page of this sup­ple­ment).

BODY

Us­ing 3.25mm cir­cu­lar nee­dles, 80cm long, yarn B and the long-tail method, cast on 181 ( 205: 229: 253: 277: 301: 325: 349: 373) sts. Set-up row (WS): P1A, *P1B, P1A; rep from * to end. Row 1 (RS): P1A, *K1B, P1A; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): K1A, *P1B, K1A; rep from * to end. Cont as set for 14 more rows, fol­low­ing rows 3-16 of Chart A and work­ing colour changes as shown.

JOIN FOR STEEK

Change to 4mm cir­cu­lar nee­dles. Work across Row 17 of Chart A, and at end of row cast on 11 sts for the steek with yarn B. Pm and join to work in the round. 192 ( 216: 240: 264: 288: 312: 336: 360: 384) sts; 181 ( 205: 229: 253: 277: 301: 325: 349: 373) sts for body and 11 sts for steek. Note: Stitch counts fol­low­ing do not in­clude 11 sts for steek un­less stated oth­er­wise. Cont in st st and strand­ing colours not in use across back of work, knit across Rnd 18 of Chart A and place mrks as foll: Rnd 18: Work 46 ( 52: 58: 64: 70: 76: 82: 88: 94) sts for Right Front, pm, work 89 ( 101: 113: 125: 137: 149: 161: 173: 185) sts for Back, pm, work 46 ( 52: 58: 64: 70: 76: 82: 88: 94) sts for Left Front, work across 11 steek sts from Steek Chart E. Cont as set, slip­ping mark­ers as you come to them and fol­low­ing Chart A and Steek Chart E un­til both are com­plete. Cont in yarn A only and st st, and work across steek in yarn A and st st un­til Body mea­sures 33 ( 33: 33: 33: 32: 32: 32: 31: 31) cm from cast-on edge.

DI­VIDE FOR ARMHOLES

Next round: *K to 5 ( 5: 5: 5: 6: 6: 7: 7: 7) sts be­fore side mrk, break yarn and, place next 10 ( 10: 10: 10: 12: 12: 14: 14: 14) sts on a holder, re­join yarn; rep from * once more, K to end of rnd. 41 ( 47: 53: 59: 64: 70: 75: 81: 87) sts for Fronts and 79 ( 91: 103: 115: 125: 137: 147: 159: 171) sts for Back, plus 11 steek sts. Set aside.

SLEEVES

Us­ing 3.25mm DPNs and yarn B, cast on 48 ( 48: 48: 48: 60: 60: 60: 60: 72) sts. Pm and join to work in the round. Rib round: *P1A, K1B; rep from * to end. Cont as set for 11 more rnds, fol­low­ing rnds 2-12 of Chart B and work­ing colour changes as shown. Change to 4mm DPNs. Cont fol­low­ing Chart B and AT THE SAME TIME inc as fol­lows, tak­ing inc sts into patt or back­ground colour as de­sired: Next round (inc): K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 2 sts inc’d. Work 9 ( 7: 5: 5: 5: 3: 3: 3: 5) rnds straight. Rep inc rnd again. 2 sts inc’d. Rep last 10 ( 8: 6: 6: 6: 4: 4: 4: 6) rnds 2 ( 3: 4: 4: 4: 7: 7: 7: 4) more times. 56 ( 58: 60: 60: 72: 78: 78: 78: 84) sts. Work 2 ( 0: 2: 2: 2: 0: 0: 0: 2) rnds straight. You should now have com­pleted Chart B. Cont in st st and yarn A only, inc as folls: Work 9 ( 9: 5: 3: 3: 5: 5: 3: 1) rnds straight. Rep inc rnd again. 2 sts inc’d. Work 11 ( 9: 7: 5: 5: 5: 5: 3: 3) rnds straight. Rep inc round again. 2 sts inc’d. Rep last 12 ( 10: 8: 6: 6: 6: 6: 4: 4) rnds 1 ( 3: 5: 8: 7: 7: 9: 12: 12) more times. 62 ( 68: 74: 80: 90: 96: 100: 106: 112) sts. Cont straight in st st and yarn A only un­til sleeve meas 42 ( 42: 43: 43: 44: 44: 45: 45: 46) cm from cast-on edge, stop­ping 5 ( 5: 5: 5: 6: 6: 7: 7: 7) sts be­fore end on fi­nal rnd. Place 5 ( 5: 5: 5: 6: 6: 7: 7: 7) sts ei­ther side of mrk on a short holder or waste yarn.

10 ( 10: 10: 10: 12: 12: 14: 14: 14) sts on hold, 52 ( 58: 64: 70: 78: 84: 86: 92: 98) re­main per sleeve.

JOIN FOR YOKE

Re­join yarn A with RS fac­ing to Right Front sts and join for yoke as fol­lows: Set-up round: K41 ( 47: 53: 59: 64: 70: 75: 81: 87) sts of Right Front, K52 ( 58: 64: 70: 78: 84: 86: 92: 98) sts of Right Sleeve, K79 ( 91: 103: 115: 125: 137: 147: 159: 171) sts of Back, K52 ( 58: 64: 70: 78: 84: 86: 92: 98) sts of Left Sleeve, K41 ( 47: 53: 59: 64: 70: 75: 81: 87) sts of Left Front, K 11 sts for steek. 276 ( 312: 348: 384: 420: 456: 480: 516: 552) sts; 265 ( 301: 337: 373: 409: 445: 469: 505: 541) sts for yoke and 11 sts for steek. Work 0 ( 1: 3: 7: 11: 13: 17: 21: 23) rnds straight in st st and A only. Cont in st st and strand­ing colours not in use across back of work, work rnds 1-12 of Chart C and Steek Chart F. Round 13 (dec): Fol­low Chart C and Steek Chart F, AT THE SAME TIME, dec as given be­low for your size to end of Chart C sts and then knit across all 11 steek sts. 24 ( 24: 24: 24: 48: 48: 48: 48: 48) sts dec’d; 241 ( 277: 313: 349: 361: 397: 421: 457: 493) sts, plus 11 steek sts. Size XS only: K5, (K2­tog, K9) 11 times, K2­tog, K10, (K2­tog, K9) 11 times, K2­tog, K4. Size S only: K5, (K2­tog, K10) 5 times, (K2­tog, K11) 13 times, (K2­tog, K10) 5 times, K2­tog, K5. Size M only: K6, (K2­tog, K12) 11 times, K2­tog, K13, (K2­tog, K12) 11 times, K2­tog, K6. Size L only: K7, (K2­tog, K13) 5 times, (K2­tog, K14) 13 times, (K2­tog, K13) 5 times, K2­tog, K6. Size 1XL only: K3, (K2­tog, K6) 11 times, (K2­tog, K7) 25 times, (K2­tog, K6) 11 times, K2­tog, K3. Size 2XL only: K4, (K2­tog, K7) 17 times, (K2­tog, K8) 13 times, (K2­tog, K7) 17 times, K2­tog, K3. Size 3XL only: K4, (K2­tog, K7) 5 times, (K2­tog, K8) 37 times, (K2­tog, K7) 5 times, K2­tog, K3. Size 4XL only: K4, (K2­tog, K8) 11 times, (K2­tog, K9) 25 times, (K2­tog, K8) 11 times, K2­tog, K4. Size 5XL only: K5, (K2­tog, K9) 17 times, (K2­tog, K10) 13 times, (K2­tog, K9) 17 times, K2­tog, K4.

All sizes Work rnds 14-26 of Chart C and Steek Chart F. Round 27 (dec): Fol­low Chart C and Steek Chart F, AT THE SAME TIME, dec as given be­low for your size to end of Chart C sts and then knit across all 11 steek sts. 46 ( 66: 86: 90: 86: 90: 98: 118: 122) sts dec’d; 195 ( 211: 227: 259: 275: 307: 323: 339: 371) sts, plus 11 steek sts. Size XS only: K2, (K2­tog, K3) 17 times, (K2­tog, K4) 11 times, (K2­tog, K3) 17 times, K2­tog, K1. Size S only: K1, (K2­tog, K2) 26 times, (K2­tog, K3) 13 times, (K2­tog, K2) 26 times, K2­tog, K1. Size M only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 15 times, (K2­tog, K2) 55 times, (K2­tog, K1) 15 times, K2­tog. Size L only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 5 times, (K2­tog, K2) 79 times, (K2­tog, K1) 5 times, K2­tog. Size 1XL only: K1, (K2­tog, K2) 34 times, (K2­tog, K3) 17 times, (K2­tog, K2) 34 times, K2­tog, K1. Size 2XL only: K1, (K2­tog, K2) 26 times, (K2­tog, K3) 37 times, (K2­tog, K2) 26 times, K2­tog, K1. Size 3XL only: K1, (K2­tog, K2) 34 times, (K2­tog, K3) 29 times, (K2­tog, K2) 34 times, K2­tog, K1. Size 4XL only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 7 times, (K2­tog, K2) 103 times, (K2­tog, K1) 7 times, K2­tog. Size 5XL only: K1, (K2­tog, K2) 58 times, (K2­tog, K3) 5 times, (K2­tog, K2) 58 times, K2­tog, K1.

All sizes Work rnds 28 and 29 of Chart C and Steek Chart F. Work rnds 1 to 10 of Chart D and Steek Chart G. Round 11 (dec): Fol­low Chart D and Steek Chart G and AT THE SAME TIME dec as given be­low for your size to end of Chart D sts and then knit across all 11 steek sts. 44 ( 52: 56: 76: 80: 100: 104: 104: 116) sts dec’d; 151 ( 159: 171: 183: 195: 207: 219: 235: 255) sts, plus 11 steek sts. Size XS only: K1, (K2­tog, K2) 12 times, (K2­tog, K3) 19 times, (K2­tog, K2) 12 times, K2­tog, K1. Size S only: K1, (K2­tog, K2) 24 times, (K2­tog, K3) 3 times, (K2­tog, K2) 24 times, K2­tog, K1. Size M only: K1, (K2­tog, K2) 26 times, (K2­tog, K3) 3 times, (K2­tog, K2) 26 times, K2­tog, K1. Size L only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 22 times, (K2­tog, K2) 31 times, (K2­tog, K1) 22 times, K2­tog. Size 1XL only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 22 times, (K2­tog, K2) 35 times, (K2­tog, K1) 22 times, K2­tog. Size 2XL only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 46 times, (K2­tog, K2) 7 times, (K2­tog, K1) 46 times, K2­tog. Size 3XL only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 46

times, (K2­tog, K2) 11 times, (K2­tog, K1) 46 times, K2­tog. Size 4XL only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 38 times, (K2­tog, K2) 27 times, (K2­tog, K1) 38 times, K2­tog. Size 5XL only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 46 times, (K2­tog, K2) 23 times, (K2­tog, K1) 46 times, K2­tog. All sizes Work rnds 12-19 of Chart D and Steek Chart G. Round 20 (dec): Fol­low Chart D and Steek Chart G and AT THE SAME TIME dec as given be­low for your size to end of Chart D sts and then knit across all 11 steek sts. 42 ( 44: 50: 56: 62: 68: 74: 82: 94) sts dec’d; 109 ( 115: 121: 127: 133: 139: 145: 153: 161) sts plus 11 steek sts. Size XS only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 8 times, (K2­tog, K2) 25 times, (K2­tog, K1) 8 times, K2­tog. Size S only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 8 times, (K2­tog, K2) 27 times, (K2­tog, K1) 8 times, K2­tog. Size M only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 14 times, (K2­tog, K2) 21 times, (K2­tog, K1) 14 times, K2­tog. Size L only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 20 times, (K2­tog, K2) 15 times, (K2­tog, K1) 20 times, K2­tog. Size 1XL only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 26 times, (K2­tog, K2) 9 times, (K2­tog, K1) 26 times, K2­tog. Size 2XL only: K1, (K2­tog, K1) 32 times, (K2­tog, K2) 3 times, (K2­tog, K1) 32 times, K2­tog. Size 3XL only: K2­tog, (K2­tog, K1) 71 times, (K2­tog) twice. Size 4XL only: (K2­tog) 5 times, (K2­tog, K1) 71 times, (K2­tog) 5 times. Size 5XL only: (K2­tog) 13 times, (K2­tog, K1) 67 times, (K2­tog) 13 times. All sizes Work round 21 of Chart D and cast off steek at end of rnd. Do not turn. Cont in B only, cast on 3 sts and work a three-stitch i-cord cast-off (see http://bit.ly/icord-cast-off ) around neck edge, break yarn and, after work­ing TO MAKE UP and but­ton bands, tuck the tail into the steek fac­ing which is cre­ated when fold­ing the edge to pick up and knit the ribbed but­ton band (see be­low).

TO MAKE UP

Us­ing Kitch­ener stitch, graft sts at un­der­arms of both sleeves.

RE­IN­FORCE STEEK

Us­ing a 3mm cro­chet hook, work a col­umn of sin­gle cro­chet on ei­ther side of the cen­tre stitch in the steek. Cut through the cen­tre stitch of the steek. At each side fold back the steek at the first stitch of the steek.

BUT­TON BAND

With RS fac­ing, us­ing 3.25mm cir­cu­lar nee­dles, 100cm long and yarn B, pick up and knit 115 ( 115: 125: 125: 125: 125: 129: 129: 129) sts down left front edge. Next row (WS): Knit. Row 1 (RS): *K1B, K1D; rep from * to last st, K1B. Row 2: *P1B, K1D; rep from * to last st, P1B. Row 3: *K1C, P1D; rep from * to last st, K1C. Row 4: *P1C, K1D; rep from * to last st, P1C. Row 5: *K1B, P1D; rep from * to last st, K1B. Row 6: *P1B, K1D; rep from * to last st, P1B. Knit 2 rows in yarn B. Cast off kwise.

BUT­TON­HOLE BAND

Note: The but­ton­holes are cre­ated by a dou­ble yarnover with both strands of yarn; on the next row the dou­ble yarnovers are knit­ted once with a sin­gle strand, drop­ping the sec­ond yarnover to cre­ate a gen­er­ous but­ton­hole. If you are us­ing smaller but­tons, work a sin­gle yarnover with both strands of yarn. With RS fac­ing, us­ing 3.25mm cir­cu­lar nee­dles, 100cm long and yarn B, pick up and knit 115 ( 115: 125: 125: 125: 125: 129: 129: 129) sts up right front edge. Next row (WS): Knit. Row 1 (RS): *K1B, K1D; rep from * to last st, K1B. Row 2: *P1B, K1D; rep from * to last st, P1B. Row 3: *K1C, P1D; rep from * to last st, K1C. Row 4 (WS, But­ton­hole): (P1C, K1D) twice, yo twice (with both strands), P2­togC; *(K1D, P1C) 6 ( 6: 5: 5: 5: 5: 6: 6: 6) times, yo twice, P2­tog in C; rep from * to last 11 sts, cont in rib as set to end. Row 5: *K1B, P1D; rep from * to last st, K1B. Row 6: *P1B, K1D; rep from * to last st, P1B. Knit 2 rows in yarn B. Cast off kwise. Block gently to mea­sure­ments, fol­low­ing any yarn care in­struc­tions on the ball band. Sew on but­tons op­po­site but­ton­holes. Slip stitch steek fac­ings at neck edge.

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