The Knitter

Mary Henderson LOVELACE

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USING THREE bright colours on a background of deep blue, the slip stitch patterning on this cardigan produces a smart checked fabric. This is contrasted beautifull­y by a lace rib pattern on the edgings and sleeves, and which is also used on the unusual saddle shoulders. Mary Henderson’s design is knitted in Devonia, a soft and lustrous blend of three British wools produced by Devon spinner John Arbon. It is available in a palette of 14 rich shades.

STITCH PATTERNS

SLEEVE RIB PATTERN

(worked in the round) (multiple of 8 sts) Rnd 1: *K1tbl, P2, K3, P2; rep from * to end. Rnd 2: *K1tbl, P2, SKYK, P2; rep from * to end. Rnd 3: *K1tbl, P2, K3, P2; rep from * to end. Repeat these 3 rnds for pattern.

SLEEVE RIB PATTERN

(worked flat after armhole shaping) (multiple of 8 sts) Rows 1 and 3: *K1tbl, P2, K3, P2; rep from * to end. Row 2: *K2, SPYP, K2, P1tbl; rep from * to end. Rows 4 and 6: *K2, P3, K2, P1tbl; rep from * to end. Row 5: *K1tbl, P2, SKYK, P2; rep from * to end. Repeat these 6 rows for pattern.

COLOURWORK PATTERN

Note: Sts are slipped purlwise with yarn held on WS.

Row 1 (RS): With yarn C, Sl 3, K1, Sl 1, K1, *Sl 1, K3, (Sl 1, K1) twice; rep from * to last 3 sts, w&t. Row 2 (WS): With yarn C, *(K1, Sl 1) twice, P3, Sl 1; rep from * to last 6 sts, K1, Sl 1, K1, w&t. With RS facing, slip 3 sts on RH needle to LH needle. Row 3: With yarn A, K2, knit wrap with wrapped st, K3, *K1, Sl 3, K4; rep from * to last 3 sts, knit wrap with wrapped st, K2. Row 4: With yarn A, K2, P1, *P4, Sl 3, P1; rep from * to last 6 sts, P4, K2. Rows 5-6: Rep Rows 1-2. Row 7: K2, knit wrap with wrapped st, knit to last 3 sts, knit wrap with wrapped st, K2. Row 8: K2, purl to last 2 sts, K2. Rows 9-16: Rep rows 1-8, using yarn B instead of yarn C. Rows 17-24: Rep rows 1-8, using yarn D instead of yarn C. Rows 25-32: Rep rows 9-16. Repeat rows 1-32 for pattern.

PATTERN NOTES

Carry colours not in use up the side of the garment, catching with yarn A to prevent gaps from forming.

It is recommende­d to use the long-tail cast-on method for all pieces.

After working cast-off sts at each armhole, maintain patt, cont to work 3 sts at each end as first and last 3 sts of Colourwork Pattern. Work armhole decreases as folls: Patt 2, K2tog, patt to last 4 sts, K2tog, K2. If the first and last 4 sts include a wrapped st, work wrap with decreases.

BACK

Using 3.5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 97 ( 113: 121: 137: 145: 161) sts.

Set-up row (WS): K2, *K2, P1tbl, K2, P3; rep from * to last 7 sts, K2, P1tbl, K4. Row 1 (RS): K2, *P2, K1tbl, P2, SKYK; rep from * to last 7 sts, P2, K1tbl, P2, K2. Rows 2 and 4: K2, *K2, P1tbl, K2, P3; rep from * to last 7 sts, K2, P1tbl, K4. Row 3: K2, *P2, K1tbl, P2, K3; rep from * to last 7 sts P2, K1tbl, P2, K2.

Work Rows 1-4 of Rib Pattern three more times, then rep Rows 1-2 once more.

Change to 3.75mm needles. Work Colourwork Pattern using the intarsia technique, twisting yarns together

at the end of every row. Work even in patt until work meas 33cm from cast-on or desired length to underarm, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE ARMHOLES

Note: See Pattern Notes for instructio­ns on working shaping in pattern. Keeping patt correct, cast off 4 ( 6: 6: 8: 8: 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then cast off 2 ( 3: 4: 6: 6: 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 85 ( 95: 101: 109: 117: 133) sts. Dec 1 st at each end of every RS row 1 ( 5: 6: 9: 11: 18) times. 83 ( 85: 89: 91: 95: 97) sts. Work even in patt until armholes meas 18 ( 19: 20 : 21 :23: 24) cm, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE SHOULDERS

Cont in st st with yarn A only, cast off 8 ( 8: 8: 8: 9: 9) sts at beg of next 6 rows. Cast off rem 35 ( 37: 41: 43: 41: 43) sts.

LEFT FRONT

Using 3.5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 49 ( 57: 57: 65: 73: 81) sts. Set-up row (WS): K2, *K2, P1tbl, K2, P3; rep from * to last 7 sts, K2, P1tbl, K2, P2. Row 1: K2, P2, K1tbl, P2, *SKYK, P2, K1tbl, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, P2. Rows 2 and 4: K2, *K2, P1tbl, K2, P3; rep from * to last 7 sts, K2, P1tbl, K2, P2. Row 3: K2, P2, K1tbl, P2, *K3, P2, K1tbl, P2; rep from * to last 2 sts, P2. **Rep rows 1-4 three times more, then rep rows 1-2 once more. Change to 3.75mm needles Work Colourwork Pattern using the intarsia technique, twisting yarns together at the end of every row. Work even in patt until work meas same as Back to underarm, ending after a WS row.

SHAPE ARMHOLE

Note: See Pattern Notes on armhole shaping. Keeping patt correct, cast off 4 ( 6: 6: 8: 8: 8) sts at beg of next (RS) row, then 2 ( 3: 4: 6: 6: 6) sts at beg of next RS row. 43 ( 48: 47: 51: 59: 67) sts. Dec 1 st at armhole edge of every RS row 1 ( 5: 6: 9: 11: 18) times. 42 ( 43: 41: 42: 48: 49) sts. Work even in patt until armhole meas 8 ( 8 :11 : 11 :14: 14) cm, ending after a RS row.

SHAPE NECK

Cast off 9 ( 10: 10: 10: 12: 12) sts at beg of next WS row. 33 ( 33: 31: 32: 36: 37) sts. Dec 1 st at neck edge of every row 9 ( 9: 7: 8: 9: 10) times. 24 ( 24: 24: 24: 27: 27) sts. Work even in patt until Front meas same as Back to shoulder.

SHAPE SHOULDER

Cont in st st with yarn A only, cast off 8 ( 8: 8: 8: 9: 9) sts at beg of next 3 RS rows.

RIGHT FRONT

Using 3.5mm needles and yarn A, cast on 49 ( 57: 57: 65: 73: 81) sts. Set-up row (WS): P2, K2, P1tbl, K2, *P3, K2, P1tbl, K2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. Row 1 (RS): P2, *P2, K1tbl, P2, SKYK; rep from * to last 7 sts, P2, K1tbl, P2, K2. Rows 2 & 4: P2, K2, P1tbl, K2, *P3, K2, P1tbl, K2; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2. Row 3: P2, *P2, K1tbl, P2, K3; rep from * to last 7 sts, P2, K1tbl, P2, K2. Cont as for Left Front from ** to end, reversing all shapings.

SLEEVES

Using 3.5mm DPNs (or circulars and

Magic Loop method), and yarn A, cast on 48 ( 56: 56: 56: 64: 72) sts. Pm and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Work Rib Pattern in the round until piece meas 6 cm. Change to 3.75mm needles. Work even until work meas 11 cm, ending after rnd 3 of pattern. Cont in Rib Pattern over these sts, inc 1 st at each end of next rnd, then every foll 4th rnd 21 ( 21: 24: 28: 27: 27) times, working inc sts into rev st st. 92 ( 100: 106: 114: 120: 128) sts. Work even in patt until Sleeve meas 43cm from cast-on, ending with a row 3 of Rib pattern.

SHAPE SLEEVE HEAD

Beg with a Row 1, cont in Sleeve rib pattern in rows, cast off 4 ( 6: 6: 8: 8: 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then 2 ( 3: 4: 6: 6: 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 80 ( 82: 86: 86: 92: 100) sts. Dec each end of every RS row 11 ( 9: 6: 6: 7: 9) times, then every 3rd row 4 ( 5: 8: 9: 9: 9) times. 50 ( 54: 58: 56: 60: 64) sts. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 6 ( 10: 12: 12: 14: 16) rows. 38 ( 34: 34: 32: 32: 32) sts. Cast off 5 sts at beg of the next 4 rows. 18 ( 14: 14: 12: 12: 12) sts.

SADDLE

Work even in Rib Pattern on rem sts until work meas 10 ( 10: 10: 10: 11 :11 ) cm from last Sleeve cast-off. Leave sts on holder. Repeat for second sleeve.

MAKING UP

Sew side seams using yarn A. Sew saddle of sleeve to shoulder edges of front and back; set sleeves into armhole.

NECKBAND

With RS facing, using 3.25mm circular needle and yarn A, pick up and knit 32 ( 34: 32: 36: 38: 40) sts from neck edge of right front to saddle stitch holder, knit across 18 ( 14: 14: 12: 12: 12) sts from holder, pm, pick up and knit 35 ( 37: 41: 43: 41: 43) sts across back neck, pm, knit across 18 ( 14: 14: 12: 12: 12) sts from holder, pm, pick up and knit 32 ( 34: 32: 36: 38: 40) sts down left front neck, turn. 135 ( 133: 133: 139: 141: 147) sts.

Row 1 (WS): (K1, P1) to mrk, slm, s2kpo, (P1, K1) to 4 sts before mrk, P1, s2kpo, slm, (P1, K1) to end. 4 sts dec’d. Row 2 (RS): *K1, P1; rep from * to last st, K1. Rep last 2 rows twice more. 123 ( 121: 121: 127: 129: 135) sts. Cast off in rib as set by row 2.

BUTTON BAND

With RS facing, using 3.25mm circular needles and yarn A, pick up and knit 94 ( 94: 102: 102: 110: 110) sts from left neck edge to hem. Row 1 (WS): *K1, P1; rep from * to end. Row 2 (RS): *P1, K1; rep from * to end. Cont even in patt as set for 5 rows more. Cast off in pattern.

BUTTONHOLE BAND

With RS facing, using 3.25mm circular needles and yarn A, pick up and knit 93 ( 93: 93: 109: 109: 109) sts from hem of right front to neck edge. Set-up row (WS): K2, *P1tbl, K2, P3, K2; rep to last 3 sts, P1tbl, K2. Row 1 (RS, Buttonhole row): P2, *K1tbl, P2, SKY2K (buttonhole made), P2, K1tbl, P2, SKYK, P2; rep from * to last 11 sts, K1tbl, P2, SKY2K (buttonhole made), P2, K1tbl, P2. Row 2: K2, *P1tbl, K2, P3, K2; rep from to last 3 sts, P1tbl, K2. Row 3: P2, *K1tbl, P2, K3, P2; rep from to last 3 sts, K1tbl, P2 Row 4: K2, *P1tbl, K2, P3, K2; rep from to last 3 sts, P1tbl, K2. Row 5: P2, *K1tbl, P2, SKYK, P2; rep from to last 3 sts, K1tbl, P2 Cast off loosely in pattern of row 4.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Sew buttons on buttonband opposite buttonhole­s. Gently block garment to measuremen­ts, following any yarn care instructio­ns on the ball band.

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