KATE GAGNON OSBORN
Designer and yarn producer Kate loves to create timeless, practical sweaters and accessories
Meet the knitwear designer behind Kelbourne Woolens
THE KNITWEAR designer Kate Gagnon Osborn enjoys creating cosy, practical knitwear using yarns developed by herself and Courtney Kelley for their Philadelphia-based company, Kelbourne Woolens. Kate gave us an insight into her design process.
Who inspired you to take up knitting?
“My paternal grandmother, my Grandmere, was an avid seamstress and taught me to sew at a young age. My maternal grandmother, my Nana, was a knitter and crocheter, and she taught me both when I was in elementary school.
“I picked up knitting again when I was getting an art degree at Skidmore College and later, after a move to (freezing cold) Vermont, in a futile attempt to keep warm… I continued to knit after we moved to Philadelphia, where I began a master’s degree in textile design. After founding Kelbourne Woolens with Courtney Kelley in 2008, I haven’t looked back.”
Do you have a favourite artist, writer, poet or musician who inspires you?
“When visiting Donegal in 2015, we happened upon the home of Kathleen Meehan, an Irish knitter who sells handknit sweaters in the tourist industry. She wasn’t expecting us, but she graciously welcomed us into her home, dug out her sweaters and showed us her piles of pattern books.
“Kathleen’s approach to knitting was so different to what we were used to in that she never really used a pattern, and didn’t really ‘get’ the idea of a yarn distributor (‘I just go to the mill and buy whatever cones they have!’). She had such pride in her work and craft, and I cherish the sweater I bought from her that day.”
Which designer has most inspired you?
“I don’t think I have seen a design by Julie Hoover that I haven’t liked. She mixes classic styling with modern details in a really lovely way, and I admire her use of seaming and shaping in order to create well-fit garments. Her pieces always seem to be both timeless and fashionable, which is a very difficult balance!”
Do you have a design philosophy?
“I am a New Englander by blood. We are a pragmatic, practical, and outdoorsy bunch, and my knitting and my design reflect this. I much prefer classic styling and technique over trendiness or whim, and a knit piece has to be, first and foremost, functional. I cannot abide by cardigans that do not close in the front, or hats that will not keep my ears warm.”
What is your favourite knitting book?
“This is an easy one! Nordic Knitting by Susanne Pagoldh. It is sadly out of print, but I encourage anyone to buy a copy if they come across it. Part history book and part pattern book, it is a wonderful introduction to a wide variety of knitting techniques and history.”
What fibres do you love to work with?
“There is a joke around the office that I would only knit with 2-ply, grey, minimally processed, heathered, DK weight, 100% wool yarn if I could, so I think it is pretty safe to say I love wool! The yarn referred to as ‘Kate’s Yarn’ during the course of its development is Scout, a DK-weight 100% wool heather. It is a really lovely mix of soft and rustic, classic and modern, and is quintessentially ‘Kate’.”
Which design from your portfolio are you most proud of, or is most special to you?
“I love ‘Rainier’, a colourwork sweater I designed in Scout. It feels most like ‘me’ in terms of design and technique and has a lot of small details that I think make it stand out: tubular cast-on and bind-offs, short-row shaping, and integrated decreases worked into the design.
Are there any techniques or styles of knitting you’d like to explore further?
“I have never designed anything using steeking or done it in practice, so that is on my ‘must do’ list. I also want to make the two authentic Bohus kits that Courtney brought back for me from Sweden when I have time for some ‘selfish’ knitting.” – Find Kate’s designs and yarns at www.kelbournewoolens.com - Try Kate’s ‘Rainier’ pattern on p47!