MASTERCLASS
Incorporating a folded hem can help to give a neat, tailored finish to knitted cardigans and jackets, as Helen Spedding explains
How to create folded hems
ADDING A folded hem to a knitted project is often used to give a tailored look to a garment. A turned-up finish at the lower edge of a cardigan or jacket, for example, will help to keep the edge from curling or stretching. To achieve a crisp, flat edge to the turned-up hem, one row can be worked in a contrasting stitch – such as a purl row, or a row of slipped stitches, on a background of stocking stitch. A more decorative effect can be achieved by working a row of picot stitches, which form little bumps or points along the lower edge once the fabric has been turned up.
This row of contrast stitches is called a turning ridge, and here we look at the three popular ways to work a turning ridge, as well as three options for joining the turned-up hem.
For the neatest finish, with the minimum of bulk, it’s recommended to work the hem allowance (the section that will be folded up to the inside) on needles that are one to three sizes smaller than the needles used for the rest of the garment. In our DK-weight samples here, the hem allowance was worked on 3.25mm needles, then changed to 4mm needles after the ridge row had been worked (decreasing the number of stitches appropriately to allow for the change in tension). When working with a bulky yarn, you may prefer to knit the hem allowance in a thinner yarn.
CREATING A FOLDLINE PURL RIDGE
This is a great choice for stocking stitch projects, as it gives a smart, crisp edge.
Use needles one to three sizes smaller than your main project needles. Work in stocking stitch until you have reached your desired hem length, ending on a WS row.
Next row (RS): Purl to end.
Change to your main needles and continue in stocking stitch.
PICOT RIDGE
Working a row of picots along the edge to be folded gives a pretty, subtle texture to the hem. It’s sometimes used on garments for babies and children. The sample in our photograph has picots worked every two stitches, but you can achieve a different look by knitting more stitches between working each picot point.
Use needles one to three sizes smaller than your main project needles. Work in stocking stitch (or your preferred pattern stitch) until you have reached your desired hem length, ending on a WS row.
Next row (RS): *K2tog, yo; rep from * to last st, K1.
Change to your main needles and continue in stocking stitch.
SLIP STITCH RIDGE
This type of foldline is a good choice for thicker yarns, or when working in a highly textured pattern stitch, as it gives a defined edge without too much bulk.
Use needles one to three sizes smaller than your project needles. Work in pattern stitch until you have reached your desired hem length, ending on a WS row.
Next row (RS): *K1, yfwd, Sl 1, yb; repeat from * to end of row.
Change to your main needles and continue in pattern stitch.
ATTACHING A FOLDED HEM
If you have worked your folded hem from the bottom up, you can attach it to the wrong side of the garment either by sewing it, or by knitting the hem edge on to the garment.
OVERSEWING/WHIPSTITCH
This is a neat and easy way to sew the hem to the WS of your knitting. Using your project yarn and a tapestry needle, and working from right to left, take the yarn through the back of one stitch on the WS of the knitting and then up through the corresponding stitch on the hem (cast-on) edge. Pull the yarn through firmly but not too tightly, to avoid puckering. Work along the row until all hem stitches are attached.
BLIND HEMMING STITCH
This is a good option for bulky yarns, because the hem edge is not pressed against the garment. Fold the hem to the
WS, pinning in place if desired, then roll back the top edge of the hem towards you, leaving a few millimetres loose. Using matching yarn and a tapestry needle, and working from right to left, sew through one stitch on the back of the garment, then one stitch in the hem just to the left of the previous stitch. Do not pull the yarn through too tightly.
For particularly bulky yarns, you could consider separating out one or two plies to use for sewing up.
KNITTED!IN TUBULAR HEM
If you don’t like sewing up, you can knit the bottom of the hem (the cast-on edge) on to the main fabric to attach the hem, then continue with your knitting. This type of hem can be worked with or without a turning ridge, depending on the look you want to achieve – the sample in our photos has a purl ridge. Casting on the hem with a looped cast-on, such as the backwards-loop cast-on, makes it easier to work a tubular hem than if you’ve used a tight knitted cast-on.
Work in stocking stitch until you have twice the desired hem length (working a turning ridge halfway through these rows, if desired). Fold the hem in half towards the wrong side of the work. Slip the first stitch from the left needle to the right needle, put the right needle into the corresponding cast-on loop on the hem, pick up and knit a stitch through this loop, then pass the slipped stitch over this picked-up stitch. Repeat along the row until all stitches have been picked up.
Top-down option
If you have worked your project top-down, before casting off the hem stitches you can join them to the back of the fabric using a three-needle cast-off. To do this, turn the work to the wrong side, and fold the hem upwards. Slip one stitch knitwise from the left needle to the right needle, insert the tip of the right needle under the corresponding purl bump on the WS, then knit the stitch and the bump together. Continue working along the row until there are two stitches on the right needle, then pass one over the other to cast off in the usual way. Working this process loosely will help to avoid a noticeably tight row where the hem is joined.