Penshurst Place
“THIS LIGHTWEIGHT jumper has extra fullness to balance the swing in the sleeves, which is reduced over the centre front and back necklines to create ruching and keeping the shoulder structure to support the angel-style sleeve,” explains designer Jacinta Bowie. “The cuffs are worked sideways and have a slipped stitch pattern that creates a smocked effect, with a full frill added at the hem. The frill is cast off with a picot edge to accentuate the frill effect.” It’s knitted in Exquisite 4ply, a silky yarn from West Yorkshire Spinners.
BACK
Using 3mm needles, cast on 136 ( 150: 164: 178: 192: 204) sts. Work 10 rows in garter stitch.
Change to 3.25mm needles.
Beg with a RS (knit) row, work in st st until Back measures 26 ( 26: 27 : 28: 29 : 30) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
SHAPE ARMHOLES
Cast off 4 ( 4: 5: 6: 7: 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
128 ( 142: 154: 166: 178: 188) sts.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 6 ( 8: 10: 12: 14: 16) rows. 116 ( 126: 134: 142: 150: 156) sts.
Cont on these sts until armhole measures 21 ( 22: 22 : 23: 23 : 24) cm from beg of shaping, ending after a WS row.
SHAPE SHOULDERS
Cast off 8 sts at beg of next 8 rows.
52 ( 62: 70: 78: 86: 92) sts.
Leave rem 52 ( 62: 70: 78: 86: 92) sts on a stitch holder for back neck.
FRONT
Work as for Back until Front measures 10cm less than Back to beg of shoulder shaping, ending after a WS row.
116 ( 126: 134: 142: 150: 156) sts.
SHAPE LEFT NECKLINE
Next row: K40, turn leaving rem sts on needle.
Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 8 rows. 32 sts.
Cont on these sts until armhole measures same as Back to beg of shoulder shaping, ending after a WS row.
SHAPE SHOULDER
Cast off 8 sts at beg of next and 3 foll alt rows.
With RS facing, return to rem sts and slip central 36 ( 46: 54: 62: 70: 76) sts onto a stitch holder for front neck.
SHAPE RIGHT NECKLINE
Rejoin yarn to rem sts.
Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 8 rows.
32 sts.
Cont on these sts until armhole measures same as Back to beg of shoulder shaping, ending after a RS row.
SHAPE SHOULDER
Cast off 8 sts at beg of next and 3 foll alt rows.
SLEEVES CUFF
(make two the same)
Using 3mm needles, cast on 60 sts. Set-up row: Knit.
SLIP STITCH PATTERN
Row 1 (WS): Knit.
Row 2: K3, (Sl 3, K7) 3 times, Sl 3, K24.
Row 3: K3, P21, (Sl 3, P7) 3 times, Sl 3, P3. Rows 4-9: Rep rows 2 and 3 another 3 times.
Row 10: As row 2.
Row 11: Knit.
Row 12: K8, (Sl 3, K7) twice, Sl 3, K29.
Row 13: K3, P26, (Sl 3, P7) twice, Sl 3, P8. Rows 14-19: Rep rows 12 and 13 another 3 times.
Row 20: As row 12.
These 20 rows set cuff and smocking stitch pattern.
Work rows 1-20 another 9 ( 9: 10: 10: 11: 11) times.
Next row: Knit.
Cast off. FRILL
Using 3mm needles and with RS facing, pick up and knit 1 st per ridge along the hem of the cuff piece.
100 ( 100: 110: 110: 120: 120) sts.
Row 1 and all WS rows: P to end.
Row 2: (K4, KFB) 20 ( 20: 22: 22: 24: 24) times. 120 ( 120: 132: 132: 144: 144) sts. Row 4: (K5, KFB) 20 ( 20: 22: 22: 24: 24) times. 140 ( 140: 154: 154: 168: 168) sts. Row 6: (K6, KFB) 20 ( 20: 22: 22: 24: 24) times. 160 ( 160: 176: 176: 192: 192) sts. Row 8: (K7, KFB) 20 ( 20: 22: 22: 24: 24) times. 180 ( 180: 198: 198: 216: 216) sts. Row 10: (K8, KFB) 20 ( 20: 22: 22: 24: 24) times. 200 ( 200: 220: 220: 240: 240) sts. Row 12: Knit.
Row 14: (K9, KFB) 20 ( 20: 22: 22: 24: 24)
times. 220 ( 220: 242: 242: 264: 264) sts .
Row 16: Knit.
Row 18: (K10, KFB) 20 ( 20: 22: 22: 24: 24)
times. 240 ( 240: 264: 264: 288: 288) sts. Row 20: Knit. Row 21: Knit.
PICOT CAST OFF
Next row: K1, *yo, pass first st over yo, K1, cast off 1; rep from * until all sts are cast off.
PICK UP ALONG CUFF FOR SLEEVE
Using 3mm needles and with RS facing, pick up and knit 80 ( 80: 88: 88: 96: 96) sts evenly along the top edge of the cuff. Work 9 rows in garter stitch.
Inc row (RS): K6 ( 4: 10: 8: 8: 8),
[M1, K17 ( 9: 17: 9: 20: 10)] 4 ( 8: 4: 8: 4: 8) times, M1, K6 ( 4: 10: 8: 8: 8).
85 ( 89: 93: 97: 101: 105) sts.
Change to 3.25mm needles.
Beg with a RS (knit) row, work 14cm in st st, ending after a WS row.
SHAPE TOP SLEEVE
Cast off 4 ( 4: 5: 6: 7: 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 77 ( 81: 83: 85: 87: 89) sts.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 8 rows.
61 ( 65: 67: 69: 71: 73) sts.
Work 8 rows straight.
Dec 1 st at each end of next and
9 ( 9: 10: 11: 12: 13) foll alt rows.
41 ( 45: 45: 45: 45: 45) sts.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 8 ( 10: 10: 10: 10: 10) rows.
25 sts.
Cast off 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
15 sts.
Cast off rem 15 sts.
TO MAKE UP NECK EDGING
Join left shoulder seam using mattress stitch.
Using 3mm needles and with RS facing, work across sts left on stitch holder for back neck as folls:
K8, (K2tog) 18 ( 23: 27: 31: 35: 38) times, K8, pick up and knit 34 sts down left straight edge of front and 8 sts along shaping, (K2tog) 18 ( 23: 27: 31: 35: 38) times across held front neck sts, pick up and knit 8 sts along neck shaping and 34 sts up right side straight edge of neck.
136 ( 146: 154: 162: 170: 176) sts
Work 10 rows in garter stitch. Cast off.
FINISHING
Join right shoulder seam and neck trim using mattress stitch.
Set in sleeves. Join sleeve seams using mattress stitch.
Join side seams using mattress stitch.