Loose sweater with pleated details on the back & sleeves
FIONA ALICE
Chic and comfortable, this sweater has pleated details and visible seams
PATTERN NOTES
This design is worked flat and in separate pieces. The back is made up of two different sections, the upper back and lower back, which are worked separately and then seamed together. The sleeves are similar, with the cuff and main sleeve worked separately and then seamed together.
These pieces are joined together by using the three-needle cast-off method, with the seam visible from the RS of the garment. The shoulders are also joined using this method.
After the shoulders are joined, the neckband is picked up and worked in the round. To join the sleeves to the body of the sweater, stitches are picked up along the armhole, as if the sleeves will be knit from the body. However, the completed sleeves are then joined to the body by using a three-needle cast-off. These seams are also visible from the RS. Once the sleeves are attached, the underarm and side seams are closed using mattress stitch from the WS.
Work shaping decreases 2 sts in from edges unless otherwise noted.
STITCH PATTERN K1, P1 RIB
(multiple of 2 sts + 1)
Row 1 (WS): *P1, K1; rep from * to last st, P1. Row 2 (RS): *K1, P1; rep from * to last st, K1. Repeat these 2 rows for pattern.
FRONT
Using 4.5mm circular needles and the long-tail method, cast on 105 ( 115: 123: 133: 141: 151: 159: 169: 177) sts.
Work in K1, P1 rib until piece measures 4cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
Change to 5mm circular needles.
Next row (RS): K1, SSK, K to end.
104 ( 114: 122: 132: 140: 150: 158: 168: 176) sts.
Starting with a WS row, cont in st st, and AT THE SAME TIME, dec 1 st at each end of every 13th row 5 times.
94 ( 104: 112: 122: 130: 140: 148: 158: 166) sts.
Work even in st st until Front measures
36 ( 36: 36: 37: 37: 37: 37 : 37 :37 ) cm from cast-on edge.
Place a locking stitch marker at either end of last row to mark placement of underarms.
Cont in st st until Front measures
52 ( 52 :53 : 54 :55: 56: 57: 58: 58 ) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
SHAPE FRONT NECK
Set-up row (RS): K40 ( 45: 48: 53: 56: 60: 64: 69: 72), cast off 14 ( 14: 16: 16: 18: 20: 20: 20: 22) sts, knit to end.
40 ( 45: 48: 53: 56: 60: 64: 69: 72) sts for each shoulder.
SHAPE RIGHT FRONT NECK AND SHOULDER
Cont in st st, cast off 3 sts at beg of every RS row twice.
34 ( 39: 42: 47: 50: 54: 58: 63: 66) sts.
Dec 1 st (using SSK) at neck edge of every RS row 4 times.
30 ( 35: 38: 43: 46: 50: 54: 59: 62) sts.
BEGIN SHORT ROWS
Short rows 1, 3 and 5 (WS): P to end.
Short row 2 (RS): K to last 10 ( 11: 12: 13: 14: 15: 16: 17: 18) sts, w&t.
Short row 4: K2, SSK, K to 10 ( 11: 12: 13: 14: 15: 16: 17: 18) sts before wrapped st, w&t.
Short row 6: K to end, picking up wraps and working with wrapped sts.
29 ( 34: 37: 42: 45: 49: 53: 58: 61) sts remain.
Work 1 ( 1: 1: 1: 1: 3: 3: 3: 3) rows even in st st.
Break yarn, leaving a long tail to work a three-needle cast-off later. Place sts on a holder.
SHAPE LEFT FRONT NECK AND SHOULDER
With WS facing, join yarn to 40 ( 45: 48: 53: 56: 60: 64: 69: 72) sts held for left neck and shoulder.
Cont in st st, cast off 3 sts at beg of every WS row twice.
34 ( 39: 42: 47: 50: 54: 58: 63: 66) sts.
Dec 1 st (using P2tog) at armhole edge of every WS row 4 times, then knit 1 RS row. 30 ( 35: 38: 43: 46: 50: 54: 59: 62) sts.
BEGIN SHORT ROWS
Short row 1 (WS): P to last 10 ( 11: 12: 13: 14: 15: 16: 17: 18) sts, w&t.
Short rows 2, 4 (RS): Knit to end.
Short row 3: P2, P2tog, P to 10 ( 11: 12: 13: 14: 15:
16: 17: 18) sts before wrapped st, w&t.
Short row 5: P to end, picking up with the wraps and working with wrapped sts.
29 ( 34: 37: 42: 45: 49: 53: 58: 61) sts remain.
Work 2 ( 2: 2: 2: 2: 4: 4: 4: 4) rows even in st st.
Break yarn, leaving a long tail to work a three-needle cast-off later. Place sts on a holder.
BACK UPPER BACK
Using 5mm circular needles and waste yarn, use a provisional method to cast on 94 ( 104: 112: 122: 130: 140: 148: 158: 166) sts. Join main yarn and work in st st for
26 ( 26: 26: 26: 26: 28: 28: 28: 28) rows, or until piece measures approximately
11 ( 11: 11: 11: 11: 11 :11 : 11 :11 ) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
Short row 1 (RS): K to last 10 ( 11: 12: 13: 14: 15: 16: 17: 18) sts, w&t.
Short row 2 (WS): P to last 10 ( 11: 12: 13: 14: 15: 16: 17: 18) sts, w&t.
Short row 3: K25 ( 29: 31: 35: 37: 40: 43: 47: 49) and place on a holder, cast off 24 ( 24: 26: 26:
28: 30: 30: 30: 32) sts, K to 10 ( 11: 12: 13: 14: 15:
16: 17: 18) sts before wrapped st, w&t and cont on these sts for back left shoulder only.
SHAPE LEFT BACK SHOULDER
Row 1 (WS): P to end.
Row 2 (RS): Cast off 6 sts, knit to end, picking up wraps and working with wrapped sts.
29 ( 34: 37: 42: 45: 49: 53: 58: 61) sts.
Work 1 ( 1: 1: 1: 1: 3: 3: 3: 3) rows even in st st.
Break yarn and place sts on a holder.
SHAPE RIGHT BACK SHOULDER
With WS facing, join yarn to sts held for right back shoulder.
Row 1 (WS): Cast off 6 sts, P to 10 ( 11: 12: 13:
14: 15: 16: 17: 18) sts before wrapped st, w&t. Row 2 (RS): K to end.
Row 3: P to end, picking up with the wraps and working with wrapped sts.
29 ( 34: 37: 42: 45: 49: 53: 58: 61) sts.
Work 0 ( 0: 0: 0: 0: 2: 2: 2: 2) rows even in st st.
Break yarn and place sts on a holder.
LOWER BACK
Using 4.5mm circular needles and the long-tail method, cast on 145 ( 155: 163: 173: 181: 191: 199: 209: 217) sts.
Work in K1, P1 rib until piece measures 4cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
Change to 5mm circular needles.
Next row (RS): K1, SSK, K to end.
144 ( 154: 162: 172: 180: 190: 198: 208: 216) sts.
Starting with a WS row, cont in st st, and AT THE SAME TIME, dec 1 st at each end of every 13th row 5 times.
134 ( 144: 152: 162: 170: 180: 188: 198: 206) sts.
Work even in st st until Lower Back measures 36 ( 36: 36: 37: 37: 37: 37 : 37 :37 ) cm from cast-on edge.
Place a locking stitch marker at either end of last row to mark placement of underarms.
Cont in st st until Lower Back measures 46 ( 46 :47 : 48 :49: 49 :50: 51 :52) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
Place 7 locking stitch markers in work as follows: first mrk after first 37 ( 42: 46: 51: 55: 60: 64: 69: 73) sts, then pm after every foll 10 sts six times.
37 ( 42: 46: 51: 55: 60: 64: 69: 73) sts remain between last mrk and end of row.
Using a tapestry needle, thread a length of waste yarn through stitches and markers and gently remove stitches from the needle. Do not break yarn.
MAKE PLEAT
With RS facing and using 5mm needles, carefully knit the first 37 ( 42: 46: 51: 55: 60:
64: 69: 73) sts on waste yarn, fold the fabric (with RS together) so the second marker meets the fourth marker, fold the fabric back on itself so now the first and third markers meet, knit 10 sts across pleat by inserting the needle into 3 sts (1 st from each layer) and knitting them together. Fold fabric (with RS together) so the sixth marker meets the fourth marker, fold the fabric back on itself so the fifth and seventh markers meet, knit 10 sts across the pleat (inserting needle into
3 sts for each st, 1 st from each layer), knit 37 ( 42: 46: 51: 55: 60: 64: 69: 73) sts to end.
94 ( 104: 112: 122: 130: 140: 148: 158: 166) sts remain.
This creates an inverted box pleat, the first pleat folding towards to left, and the second pleat folding towards the right. All the stitches are now back on 5mm needles. Break yarn, leaving a long tail to work a three-needle cast-off across stitches. Remove waste yarn and markers.
JOINING UPPER BACK AND LOWER BACK
Carefully remove waste yarn from provisional cast-on from Upper Back and place live stitches on a 4.5mm needle.
With WS facing each other (to show seam on RS) and Lower Back on bottom and Upper Back on top, using the long yarn tail from Lower Back and a spare 5mm needle, work a three-needle cast-off, joining extra Lower Back st to end of row of Upper Back. (make two alike)
CUFF
Using 4.5mm circular needles and the long-tail method, cast on 37 ( 39: 41: 43: 45: 47: 49: 51: 53) sts.
Work in K1, P1 rib until piece measures 7cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
Next row (RS): SSK, work in rib patt to last st.
36 ( 38: 40: 42: 44: 46: 48: 50: 52) sts.
Break yarn, leaving a long enough tail to work a three-needle cast-off across sts. Set aside.
MAIN SLEEVE
Using 5mm circular needles and waste yarn, use a provisional cast-on method to cast on 82 ( 84: 86: 88: 90: 94: 96: 98: 102) sts.
Join main yarn and work in st st for 20 ( 20: 20: 18: 16: 10: 10: 8: 4) rows.
Cont in st st, dec 1 st at each end of next row, then every foll sixth row 10 ( 10: 10: 10: 10: 11: 11: 11: 12) more times.
60 ( 62: 64: 66: 68: 70: 72: 74: 76) sts.
Work even in st st until piece measures 39 ( 39 :39 : 38 :38: 38: 37 : 37: 36) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
Place 7 locking stitch markers in work as folls: first mrk after first 12 ( 13: 14: 15: 16: 17: 18: 19: 20) sts, then after every foll 6 sts six times.
12 ( 13: 14: 15: 16: 17: 18: 19: 20) sts remain between last mrk and end of row.
Using a tapestry needle, thread a length of waste yarn through the stitches and markers and gently remove stitches from needle. Do not break yarn.
MAKE PLEAT
With RS facing and using 5mm circular needles, carefully knit the first 12 ( 13: 14: 15: 16: 17: 18: 19: 20) sts on waste yarn, fold the fabric (with RS together) so the second marker meets the fourth marker, fold the fabric back on itself so now the first and third markers meet, knit 6 sts across pleat by inserting the needle into 3 sts (1 st from each layer) and knitting them together. Fold the fabric (with RS together) so the sixth marker meets the fourth marker. Fold fabric back on itself so the fifth and seventh markers meet, knit 6 sts across the pleat (inserting needle into 3 sts for each st,
1 st from each layer), K12 ( 13: 14: 15: 16: 17:
18: 19: 20) to end.
36 ( 38: 40: 42: 44: 46: 48: 50: 52) sts.
All sts are now back on 5mm circular needles. Remove waste yarn and stitch markers. Break yarn.
JOINING CUFF AND SLEEVE
With WS of Cuff and Main Sleeve together (to show seam on RS), use the long tail from the Cuff and a spare 5mm needle to work a three-needle cast-off across held sts of Cuff and held sts of Main Sleeve.
TO MAKE UP
Using 5mm circular needles, the yarn tails left from the Front, and with WS together (to show seam on RS), join shoulders using a three-needle cast-off.
NECKBAND
With 4.5mm needles and RS of sweater facing, beg at right shoulder seam, pick up and knit 44 ( 44: 46: 46: 48: 54: 54: 54: 56) sts across back neck, pick up and knit
22 ( 22: 22: 22: 22: 24: 24: 24: 24) sts down left front neck, pick up and knit
14 ( 14: 16: 16: 18: 20: 20: 20: 22) sts from front neck, then pick up and knit
22 ( 22: 22: 22: 22: 24: 24: 24: 24) sts up right front neck. Pm and join to work in the round.
102 ( 102: 106: 106: 110: 122: 122: 122: 126) sts.
Rib rnd: *P1, K1; rep from * to end. Work in rib patt for 6 more rounds. Cast off loosely in patt.
FINISHING JOIN SLEEVES
Using 5mm circular needles and with RS facing, starting at centre of underarm and leaving a long enough yarn tail to work a three-needle cast-off later across 81 ( 83: 85: 87: 89: 93: 95: 97: 101) sts, pick up and knit 40 ( 41: 42: 43: 44: 46: 47: 48: 50) sts to shoulder seam, pick up and knit 1 st at seam, then pick up and knit
40 ( 41: 42: 43: 44: 46: 47: 48: 50) sts from shoulder seam to centre of underarm. Break yarn.
81 ( 83: 85: 87: 89: 93: 95: 97: 101) sts total.
Carefully unravel the waste yarn used for the provisional cast-on for Sleeve. Place lives sts onto 4.5mm circular needles. With WS facing each other (to show seam on RS), using the long tail from the picked-up sts and a spare 5mm needle, work a three-needle cast-off to join Sleeve to Body, joining extra provisional cast-on st to Body.
Repeat for other side.
Close the underarm and side seams using mattress stitch. Weave in ends.
Gently block to measurements, following any yarn care instructions on the ball band. When blocking, block the sweater front side down - this way the back pleat can be neatly adjusted and left to dry.