The Knitter

English Oak

Cardigan combining colourwork and texture

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“THE INSPIRATIO­N for this pattern was to create a colourful jumper slightly different from the usual stranded colourwork by introducin­g texture,” says Mary Henderson. “Simply using knit and purl stitches in bands and blocks of colour provided their own rhythm. The Novita Woolly Wood yarn gives lovely stitch definition.”

PATTERN NOTES

The back and fronts are knitted flat, in separate pieces, and joined at the shoulders using a three-needle cast-off. The sleeves are picked up along the shoulders and knitted in rows to the cuff, and have an i-cord cast-off.

The front edges are worked in garter stitch to form the finished edges of the button bands and neck bands. The sleeves and side seams are joined using mattress stitch, beginning at the cuff and ending 12cm before the cast-off edge. This forms side vents for ease of fit.

The block colours can be cut at the colour change leaving short tails to be woven in later. Stitch markers can be used to mark out repeats and on the decrease rows of the sleeves to ensure even lengths. The difference in tension between the two stitch patterns creates the relaxed fit over the bust and shoulders.

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIO­NS GERMAN SHORT ROWS

Work in pattern (knit or purl) until the point at which the pattern says turn, then turn work, leaving the remaining stitches unworked on the right-hand needle.

Bring the yarn between the needles to the front of the work. Slip the first stitch on the left needle, purlwise with the yarn in front. Pull the working yarn firmly up and towards the back of the work. This will tighten the stitch and nd give it a double leg. It will look like two stitches instead of one - a double stitch (DS). Continue to knit to the end of the row.

When you come to a DS on a following row, treat it as a single stitch and work as indicated in the pattern.

OLD NORWEGIAN CAST!ON

"AKA TWISTED GERMAN CAST! ON#

See our Masterclas­s: www.gathered.how/knitting-andcrochet/knitting/learn-the-germantwis­ted-cast-on/

THREE!NEEDLE CAST! OFF

Join matching shoulder seams fronts to back with right sides together.

With the fronts facing you and using a spare needle, cast off the left front and left back together. Do not break yarn. With first back neck stitch, cast on 1 stitch using the lace cast-on method, then cast off the back neck sts using the i-cord method

(see below), then cast off the right front and right back together from neck edge to shoulder.

I! CORD CAST! OFF

Cast on 1 st using the lace cast-on method. *K1, K2tog tbl, slip these 2 sts back on to LH needle; rep from * until 2 sts remain, cast off in the usual way, cut yarn leaving a short tail and pull through the loop. Fasten off and sew in on the wrong side.

Using 3.5mm needles, yarn A, and the Old Norwegian cast-on or another stretchy cast-on method, cast on

115 ( 127: 139: 151: 169: 181: 193) sts.

Knit 1 row.

Work rows 1-78 of Chart A, working repeat section 18 ( 20: 22: 24: 27: 29: 31) times across row.

Work rows 1-42 of Chart A again, inc 1 st at end of last row.

116 ( 128: 140: 152: 170: 182: 194) sts.

Using yarn B only, work 12 rows in Chart B pattern, working repeat section

19 ( 21: 23: 25: 28: 30: 32) times across row, and finishing after a row 4.

Change to yarn C and, beginning with a row 5, work 12 rows in Chart B pattern.

Continuing in Chart B pattern as set, work 12 rows in yarn D, 12 rows in yarn E, and 12 rows in yarn A.

Sizes M to 3XL only

Continuing in Chart B pattern as set, work 12 rows in yarn B.

Sizes 1XL to 3XL only

Continuing in Chart B pattern as set, work 12 rows in yarn C.

All sizes

Continuing in the yarn colour most

recently worked, knit 2 ( 4: 2: 4: 2: 4: 6) rows straight.

BEGIN SHORT ROWS

Worked in German short rows throughout. Short row 1 (RS): Knit to last 4 ( 5: 5: 6: 6: 7: 8) sts, turn, DS.

Short row 2: Knit to last 4 ( 5: 5: 6: 6: 7: 8) sts, turn, DS.

Working to 4 ( 5: 5: 6: 6: 7: 8) sts before last DS each time, work another 4 short rows.

Knit 2 rows, working DS as single sts.

Place locking stitch markers 36 ( 41: 46: 50: 58: 62: 66) sts from each edge, leaving

44 ( 46: 48: 52: 54: 58: 62) sts for back neck. Leave all sts on a holder.

LEFT FRONT

Using 3.5mm needles and yarn A, using the Old Norwegian cast-on or another stretchy cast-on method, cast on

63 ( 69: 75: 81: 87: 93: 99) sts.

Knit 1 row.

Work rows 1-78 of Chart C, working repeat section 9 ( 10: 11: 12: 13: 14: 15) times across row. Work rows 1-42 of Chart C again.

Work Chart B as for Back until you have worked a total of 27 ( 27: 37: 35: 47: 45: 45) rows, ending after a RS row.

Next row (WS): Cast off 12 sts, patt to end. 51 ( 57: 63: 69: 75: 81: 87) sts.

Keeping pattern correct, decrease at neck edge of next 15 ( 15: 15: 16: 13: 14: 14) RS rows, working each RS row decrease as follows: Patt to last 5 sts, K2tog, K3.

36 ( 42: 48: 53: 62: 67: 73) sts.

When decs are completed, cont straight until Left Front meas same as Back to beg of shoulder shaping, ending at neck edge.

Next row (WS): Knit to last 4 ( 5: 5: 6: 6: 7: 8) sts, turn, DS.

Work 1 row straight. nd

Working to 4 ( 5: 5: 6: 6: 7: 8) sts before last DS each time, work last 2 rows another 2 times.

Knit 2 rows, working DS as single sts. Leave all sts on a holder.

RIGHT FRONT

Using 3.5mm needles and yarn A, using the Old Norwegian cast-on or another stretchy cast-on method, cast on

63 ( 69: 75: 81: 87: 93: 99) sts.

Knit 1 row.

Work rows 1-78 of Chart D, working repeat section 9 ( 10: 11: 12: 13: 14: 15) times across row. Work rows 1-42 of Chart D again.

Work Chart B as for Back until you have worked 2 rows, ending after a WS row. Next row (RS buttonhole): K3 in colour given for row, yo2, K2tog, patt to end. Next row (WS): Patt to end, working double yo as a single st.

Continue in Chart B pattern as for Left Front, working another 2 ( 2: 3: 3: 4: 4: 4) buttonhole­s on rows 11, 21, - (-:31: 31: 31: 31: 31) and - (-:-:-:41: 41: 41).

Continue straight until you have worked a total of 27 ( 27: 37: 35: 47: 45: 45) rows of Chart B, ending after a RS row.

Work 1 row straight.

Next row (RS): Cast off 12 sts, patt to end. 51 ( 57: 63: 69: 75: 81: 87) sts.

Keeping pattern correct, decrease at neck edge of next 15 ( 15: 15: 16: 13: 14: 14) RS rows, working each RS row decrease as follows: K3, SSK, patt to end.

36 ( 42: 48: 53: 62: 67: 73) sts.

When decs are completed, cont straight until Right Front meas same as Back to beginning of shoulder shaping, ending at neck edge.

Next row (RS): Knit to last 4 ( 5: 5: 6: 6: 7: 8) sts, turn, DS.

Work 1 row straight.

Working to 4 ( 5: 5: 6: 6: 7: 8) sts before last DS each time, work last 2 rows another 2 times.

Knit 2 rows, working DS as single sts. Leave all sts on a holder.

INTERIM FINISHING

Join shoulder seams using three-needle cast-off .

Work i-cord cast-off across Back neck (see Special Instructio­ns).

SLEEVES

With RS facing and yarn A, pick up and knit 96 ( 96: 108: 108: 120: 120: 132) sts around armhole, starting and ending where

Chart A and B sections meet on Body.

Knit 1 row straight.

Change to yarn C and begin working

Chart B pattern, beginning first row on stitch 2 and ending on stitch 7, repeating this 6-st repeat 16 ( 16: 18: 18: 20: 20: 22) times across row.

Keeping pattern correct, continue straight until you have worked a total of 12 rows in Chart B pattern. Continue with yarn C to cuff.

SHAPE SLEEVES

Decrease row (RS): K1, SSK, patt to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 2 sts dec’d.

Keeping pattern correct throughout, decrease as set on 10 ( 10: 4: 4: 23: 23: 20) foll 6th ( 6th: 6th: 6th: 4th: 4th: 4th) rows and on 9 ( 9: 18: 18: 2: 2: 8) foll 4th ( 4th: 4th: 4th: 2nd: 2nd: 2nd) rows.

56 ( 56: 62: 62: 68: 68: 74) sts.

Work 2 rows straight, dec 1 st at end of last row.

55 ( 55: 61: 61: 67: 67: 73) sts.

CUFF

Work rows 1-20 of Chart E, working repeat section 8 ( 8: 9: 9: 10: 10: 11) times across row.

Sleeve should measure 37cm from armhole.

Using yarn A, cast on 1 st using the lace cast-on method, then cast off using the i-cord method.

Join sleeve seams and side seams, leaving a 12cm gap at lower edge of body for vent. Sew on buttons to match buttonhole­s Weave in ends and block gently to measuremen­ts, following any yarn care instructio­ns on the ball band. ●

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 ??  ?? A textured pattern is worked over the whole garment, including the colourwork sections
A textured pattern is worked over the whole garment, including the colourwork sections

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