The Saturday Paper

Prawn again dumplings

-

I think I’ve said before that you can’t trust someone who doesn’t like dumplings. I’m yet to meet anyone who doesn’t like a good dumpling. Most European or Asian countries have their own variation on the theme.

I’ve been making these dumplings for a while now. The recipe has been tested, developed and workshoppe­d – more than most of the recipes I cook – and it is a recipe of which I am really proud. I was quite particular about how I wanted it to taste and how I wanted the texture.

The vision was to have a dumpling that had a subtly flavoured chicken filling studded with large pieces of sweet and crunchy prawn.

It’s not just the combinatio­n of flavours that I’m proud of here but also the developmen­t of the technique of making the dumpling filling. The main factor is how we work the minced chicken to develop a firm texture. The other element that contribute­s to this mouth feel is the size of the dice on the prawn meat. Too small and it gets broken down and indistingu­ishable. One of the best things about prawn meat is its texture, and I think that is really apparent in this dish.

There are traditiona­l and regional versions of this dish. Prawn dumplings with garlic chives is an obvious one, and was a favourite of mine when I lived in China.

One of the influences of the balance of flavour in this dish is a need to accommodat­e the complex vinegar that we serve with it. The vinegar we use is a brown rice vinegar called Chinkiang. It has a lovely yellow label but more importantl­y it has a unique flavour and sweetness, which is great with dumplings. The famous xiaolongba­o is served with this on the side, flavoured with shredded ginger.

Handmade and hand-rolled wonton skins are great, but I quite like store-bought skins for this recipe. When boiled and served immediatel­y the flavour and

• texture of the wanton skin is almost superfluou­s.

 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? Photograph­y: Earl Carter
Photograph­y: Earl Carter
 ??  ?? ANDREW McCONNELL is the executive chef and coowner of Cutler & Co and Cumulus Inc. He is The Saturday Paper’s food editor.
ANDREW McCONNELL is the executive chef and coowner of Cutler & Co and Cumulus Inc. He is The Saturday Paper’s food editor.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia