The Saturday Paper

ANNIE SMITHERS

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To anyone who will listen, I am often heard banging on about the importance of mastering basic techniques. I find that in this modern world of ours we are bombarded with recipes from many angles: newspapers, the internet, magazines, television programs and even podcasts. Often we will come across a recipe that will interest us but may be scant on instructio­ns, or even a picture of something delicious on a picture-only social media site. It is here that the understand­ing of basic techniques enables us to apply our knowledge of these techniques and cook something beautiful without too much stress.

So here is a little strawberry tart. It is made up of three distinct components, the pastry, the crème pâtissière and the fruit. From the instructio­ns for the first two, many things can evolve. Firstly, strawberri­es can be exchanged for many fruits. The sweet shortcrust pastry used here can be used for other sweet pastry applicatio­ns, and the crème pâtissière, once mastered, can be used in tarts, filling choux pastry and even between puff pastry sheets to create a vanilla slice.

First to the pastry. Sweet shortcrust has been a pastry that has vexed me for many years. It behaves differentl­y to other shortcrust pastries because of the addition of sugar. Those tiny little crystallin­e edges on the sugar mean the pastry has a tendency to tear when it is being rolled out. I know there are many out there who have had terrible experience­s when attempting to roll out various versions of a sweet shortcrust. So, break a little rule. I think many of us are terrified of overworkin­g pastry but, with this one, it can save an enormous amount of grief. So, once the pastry has been made and rested, before you roll it out, give it a gentle little knead. The movement will take the edges off those pesky sugar crystals and you will have a much more enjoyable experience rolling out your pastry.

Now the crème pâtissière, or pastry cream, is another foundation technique in the pastry kitchen.

The trick is to not be fooled by its appearance. During the cooking process, the mixture goes through several metamorpho­ses. First from a liquid to a thickening mess. It is always lumpy and unnerving at this stage.

But persist, all the while stirring vigorously, and that ugly, lumpy mix will turn into the most beautiful silken

• custard.

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 ??  ?? Photograph­y: Earl Carter
Photograph­y: Earl Carter
 ??  ?? ANNIE SMITHERS is the owner and chef of du Fermier in Trentham, Victoria.
ANNIE SMITHERS is the owner and chef of du Fermier in Trentham, Victoria.

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