Wash­ing and serv­ing pips and peri­win­kle

The Saturday Paper - - Food - DAVID MOYLE is a chef. He is a food edi­tor of The Satur­day Pa­per.

One of the great­est culi­nary gifts from North Amer­ica is clam­ato juice, which is the com­bi­na­tion of tomato juice and clam broth. It has an in­cred­i­ble bal­ance of acids and umami, and, when com­bined with vodka and cel­ery and pick­les, things get wild. It was a brave per­son to first de­cide on serv­ing this com­bi­na­tion cold.

A di­rect rel­a­tive of the clam in the bi­valve sec­tor is the pipi. The pipi is de­fined by a tri­an­gu­lar shell and is found in the shal­lows of es­tu­ar­ies and beach sand flats. Pipis are very ac­ces­si­ble to gather – you just need to be wary of the catch lim­its and any nearby con­tam­i­nants that could af­fect the water qual­ity. A quick purge overnight in clear salt­wa­ter will deal with the sand and grit, then just give one fi­nal rinse and you are good to go.

There are few things that con­jure up stronger im­ages of sum­mer for me than shuf­fling bare­foot in shal­low salt­wa­ter and sand to track pipis down. Al­ter­na­tively, they are about $18 a kilo from the mar­ket.

For the next level of funk, we bring in the peri­win­kle. On a re­cent trip to the west coast of Tas­ma­nia I sur­vived al­most ex­clu­sively on th­ese grilled open over coals. I have since de­vel­oped a real love for them. Al­most like a poor man’s abalone, they can go hor­ri­bly wrong with the tex­ture if cooked too long or too short. But per­sist and the re­wards are worth­while.

This dish is a bit of a cel­e­bra­tion of all things shal­low-water-gath­er­ing. Plus, the ad­di­tion of pota­toes

• and but­ter has never hurt a thing.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.