FOOD: Pipis and peri­win­kles with new pota­toes and seaweed but­ter.

The Saturday Paper - - The Week Contents - David Moyle

Serves 4 – 100g shal­lots, sliced

– olive oil

– 60ml sherry vine­gar

– 20g kombu

– 80g wakame

– zest of 1 le­mon

– 200g but­ter, diced (at room tem­per­a­ture)

– salt and pep­per

– 100g peri­win­kles

– 200g pipis

– 150ml white wine

– 1 clove gar­lic

– 400g waxy very small pota­toes (pink fir ap­ple or Dutch cream) – 300ml chicken stock

– le­mon juice

– 6 large leaves French sor­rel, shred­ded Cook the sliced shal­lots in a lit­tle olive oil un­til they be­gin to brown, then re­move from the heat and deglaze the pan with the sherry vine­gar. Toast the sea­weeds in an oven at about 170ºC for about 10 min­utes, then crush them in your hands, place in a spice grinder and ren­der to dust. Com­bine the shal­lots, le­mon zest, but­ter and sea­weeds in a bowl and mix un­til smooth. Sea­son heav­ily with salt and pep­per, then roll into a log and seal in cling wrap. Re­frig­er­ate.

To pre­pare the peri­win­kles, place an empty, heavy-based pot large enough to hold them in a sin­gle layer over a high heat. Put the peri­win­kles in a bowl, run un­der cold water and ag­i­tate for 10 sec­onds or so. Re­tain about 100 millil­itres of the water in the bowl with the peri­win­kles, then tip it all into the scald­ing hot pot. Place a tight-fit­ting lid over the pot, then ag­i­tate over the heat sev­eral times for the 40 sec­onds it will take to cook. Tip the peri­win­kles back into the bowl and let cool for about one minute be­fore re­mov­ing the meat. I find the best way is to take a turn­ing knife or thick can­vas sew­ing nee­dle, then flick the pro­tec­tive shell out of the cav­ity be­fore pierc­ing the meat and pulling out. This is the point where you can de­cide how ad­ven­tur­ous you want to be by set­ting bound­aries for how much of the mov­ing parts you want to eat. (Things get more in­tense to­wards the tail.)

Boil the pota­toes gen­tly in their skin in salted water un­til cooked, then re­move the skin. Place the pota­toes back into a pot, to­gether with about 100 millil­itres of the stock from the pipis and the chicken stock, and sim­mer gen­tly. This liq­uid will re­duce and thicken slightly with the starch re­leased from the pota­toes. Once the liq­uid is about the con­sis­tency of pour­ing cream, add 120 grams of the seaweed but­ter and stir over a gen­tle heat un­til melted. Fin­ish with a squirt of le­mon juice.

For the pipis, it’s much the same, so re­heat the pot over the flame and tip the pipis, wine and gar­lic clove in once it is hot. Place a snug-fit­ting lid on and ag­i­tate reg­u­larly. Keep an eye on the pipis and re­move them when they have popped open, one by one. Strain the juice back over the cooked pipis and let them sit.

Place the pota­toes on a plate and fin­ish with the pipis and peri­win­kles and shred­ded sor­rel leaves.

Pho­tog­ra­phy: Earl Carter

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