Ain’t nothing like the eel thing

In south-west Victoria, where I grew up, there is evidence of this country’s early forms of aquaculture practised on Gunditjmara land in the form of elaborate eel traps and runs believed to have been developed up to 8000 years ago. This sight has since been submitted for UNESCO classification under World Heritage convention.

Farming our native shortfin eel is still in practice where the elvers are captured in estuaries before being transferred into tanks to feed and bring to condition.

Eel isn’t our most popular protein but it is often available as a smoked product that can be treated much the same as bacon. It also produces the best bones and skin for making a really fragrant and rich stock.

Despite the name, spring onions are generally available all year, but the flourish of alliums in spring presents so many different varieties to use.

When garlic throws its flowering body in its early form, it is picked and known as a “scape”. This part of the garlic is very tender and sweet and lends itself to be eaten as a vegetable. It is particularly tasty when stir-fried or grilled. I love using the scape in soups.

This recipe is a bit of a play on potato and leek soup but with eel instead of bacon. It can also be made richer

• by increasing the amount of potato used.