Food: Christmas pork. Annie Smithers

This year has left me longing to live a quieter, simpler life. One where I tread more gently upon the earth. So for Christmas, I’m looking for an old-fashioned favourite. This variation of a roasted pork loin fits the bill nicely.

First, make sure that your pork loin is bred by a farmer who works sustainably and practises good animal husbandry. Lining the meat with a simple puree of prunes and Armagnac will give the rolled pork a very luxurious, Christmassy feel, without being too involved.

When roasting a full loin such as this, it is important to make sure the skin is very dry so you get good crackling. Rubbing with a little vinegar helps this process along, as does leaving the meat uncovered to air-dry in the fridge for a couple of days. I always roast my pork cuts on a bed of vegetables with a little stock once the crackling has set. Whether it’s a shoulder or a loin, this achieves two things. One, a simple but beautiful sauce develops, and, two, it means the washing up is easier. To this end, I never turn the pork – I love the juxtaposition of all that crisp skin on top with a bottom that is soft and gelatinous.

The whole roasted apples bring in the classic pairing of apples and pork with a little twist. There are some beautiful small pink lady apples around at the moment that are perfect for the job.

I would serve the pork loin and apples with a crisp green salad and a tray of golden roasted potatoes.

Go well this Christmas, stay safe and here’s to a new year that will hopefully be a little easier to navigate.