The Saturday Paper

Spring tidings

- Annie Smithers is the owner and chef of du Fermier in Trentham, Victoria. She is a food editor of The Saturday Paper.

Just like the sunlight streaming through my windows, the fresh flush of spring greens are streaming into greengroce­rs and farmers’ markets across the land. Now is the start of the glorious run of asparagus, peas, both shelling and in pods, and broad beans. It always seems such a magical transition from the earthy colours of winter food. Here are the brightest of bright greens adorning our plates, vanquishin­g the drabness of winter. But spring sunshine can be fleeting. It’s a season in the southern states that can swing wildly from perfect warm, still days, to high winds, to flurries of snow.

It’s due to this unpredicta­ble weather that I have paired these delightful green vegetables with some spring lamb shoulder. Traditiona­lly a braising cut, the meat is prepared in a heavily spiced marinade and then slow-roasted in its own juices. As the meat is young and sweet, it responds very well to a slow, covered roasting. It is hearty enough if the weather turns cold but sweet and giving enough to be served as a warm salad if the weather is warm. The crushed broad beans are like a coarse dip and, paired with the sheep’s milk yoghurt, are delicious if served with some grilled bread. It’s a little like a bright spring variation of a souvlaki.

For those who don’t eat meat, this dish would be delightful with some lovely crunchy falafel, with copious amounts of new-season coriander, parsley and mint in the mix. It is the most glorious season of fresh green shoots that always spells hope and promise for tomorrow.

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 ?? Photograph­ed remotely by Earl Carter ??
Photograph­ed remotely by Earl Carter
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