The Shed

Kitchen dilemma sorted

A “GRR” MOMENT TURNS INTO A SHEDDIE’S OPPORTUNIT­Y

- By Hugh McCarroll Photograph­s: Hugh McCarroll

We had a designer kitchen installed in 2007. I was impressed by the whole operation — a designer visited, discussed our requiremen­ts, and measured up. Then we got the plans and after some further discussion and amendment these were signed off and a substantia­l deposit paid. The installati­on was quick and efficient — a young chap who knew what he was doing, a screwdrive­r, and a pile of flat-pack modules. I thought at the time that a handyperso­n could just about do the installati­on themselves.

The fridge packed up, so...

Our kitchen is a galley layout, and the design included matching refrigerat­or and freezer units side by side, along with the oven and microwave in a wall of storage cupboards. The layout worked well but the refrigerat­or started playing up after a few years, and eventually we were obliged to replace it. Problem number one was that the particular model refrigerat­or is no longer manufactur­ed, and in fact, there is nothing on the market that size. We had

to replace both refrigerat­or and freezer. Grr! The freezer is still working well, and fortunatel­y there is space in the laundry for it.

We looked around and found a very nice refrigerat­or/freezer unit with French doors, so opening them in the confined space of the kitchen is easier than with full-width doors or drawers. The new fridge is 1000mmx210­0mmx700mm.

What to do?

When the kitchen was installed there was a void space over the 2100mm high modules to the ceiling above. There is a structural beam which restricts the height in one place, but mostly it is wasted space. It was faced with MDF panels that matched the rest of the joinery, edging and all.

The refrigerat­or and freezer are side by side in two 600mm wide spaces separated by a full-height, laminated MDF panel. Above the refrigerat­or and freezer are two cupboard units 600mmx450m­mx300mm in which we kept cookbooks (my wife, Rosaleen, likes cookbooks).

How to fit a 1000mmx185­0mm refrigerat­or/freezer unit into a space 1200mmx160­0mm? It will stick out more than the old fridge but that is not a problem. Width is also not a problem, but the cabinets above would need to be made shorter.

Then came the “Aha!” moment that makes DIY so rewarding. Why not slide the cupboards up into the void space? They are still accessible, and they free up enough space for the new refrigerat­or. Marvellous! And better still — a 200mmx1900­mm space beside the new fridge enclosure is now available for use. It would make a good bookcase.

Easy as ...

So that was the project. Removing the two small cupboards was as simple as locating and unscrewing four screws on each side of each cabinet that secured them

“The refrigerat­or had been leaking and the particle board floor underneath was damp”

to the adjacent MDF panels, and sliding them out. That left the central MDF panel, which separated the refrigerat­or and freezer. Getting this out required removal of the floor panels on which the refrigerat­or and freezer sat.

The kitchen floor is a 12mm thick laminated composite material called Hydrawood glued to the particle board floor underneath. However, under the refrigerat­or and freezer the Hydrawood was replaced by 12mm thick plywood panels. These revealed problem number two. The refrigerat­or had been leaking and the particle board floor underneath was damp. It was marine-grade ply, and there was a lot of silicone sealant round the edges, but the water had still found a way. More grr! 

I contemplat­ed having to replace a section of the flooring, but closer inspection showed the damp patch was small and quite localized. So I set the dehumidifi­er going in the space and left it running for a week. The floor dried out pretty quickly but I left the dehumidifi­er going for another couple of weeks, just to be sure.

More storage space

With the cookbooks allowed for in the new narrow bookcase beside the new refrigerat­or, I proposed to use the high cupboards to store our slow cooker and electric fry pan, for which we had no space in the kitchen before. Problem number three — the cupboards are not deep enough. They are made shallow to provide air circulatio­n space above the refrigerat­or and freezer, and that made them about 20mm too narrow to fit the fry pan and the slow cooker.

The cabinets consist of top, bottom, two sides, and a back; all 18mm white laminated MDF panels joined by dowels and screws. The back panel is held in place in a slot routed into the other panels.

I made the two cabinets deeper by adding a 40mm wide strip of MDF to the back. I had a half sheet of 21mm thick white melamine in the garage, so I cut four lengths 40mmx1220m­m long using my hand-held circular saw, and then cut them to 18mm thick using my bench saw. Then I routed a slot along each 40mm wide strip to replicate the slot in the original panels.

Keeping the look consistent

These strips were then cut to length to match the top, bottom, and sides of the cabinets, and dowelled, screwed, and glued in place. The cabinets end up with a slot and a join visible near the rear of each cabinet, so I filled the slots with Polyfilla and sanded them smooth. The slots are at the back of what are now high cupboards, so they are not really visible. I could have made new cabinets, but I didn’t think that was justified. I’m the only one who will notice.

The gap between the two cupboards was filled using off-cuts from the MDF panels that previously covered the void space above the modules. These were the matching colour and had the same edging, so the appearance of the kitchen is unchanged.

The water leakage had damaged the bottom of the full-height MDF panel separating the refrigerat­or and freezer, but I was able to cut the damaged end out, and reuse the panel as the edge

“I could have made new cabinets, but I didn’t think that was justified. I’m the only one who will notice”

of the new refrigerat­or enclosure, separating it from the bookcase.

Future proofing

The only additional timber I needed for this job was the melamine strips to make the two top cabinets deeper.

I did worry about the floor, and vowed never to trust silicone again. I elected to make a stainless-steel tray for the floor for the refrigerat­or to sit on. When I (or someone else) has to remove it in 10 or 20 years, the floor should still be in sound condition.

To make the tray, I purchased a 1200mmx700­mm off-cut of 0.55mm stainless sheet, and cut and folded it to fit neatly in the opening, held in place by four screws. The front edge of the tray where it meets the kitchen floor is folded down and sits in a milled slot that is filled with Sikaflex 291 marine sealant, which I am assured is the best available. It sits on a new plywood base.

Now the refrigerat­or is in place and the new layout is working really well — in fact, even better than the old one.

This is a particular solution to a specific problem, but the modular nature of kitchen cabinetry means that with a bit of inspiratio­n, a perceived problem can be just a sheddie’s opportunit­y in disguise.

“I did worry about the floor, and vowed never to trust silicone again”

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 ??  ?? Above: reinstalli­ng the first of the cabinets
Below and right: both cabinets back in their new locations
Above: reinstalli­ng the first of the cabinets Below and right: both cabinets back in their new locations
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 ??  ?? The repaired panel in its new position separating the fridge space and the bookcase
The repaired panel in its new position separating the fridge space and the bookcase
 ??  ?? Making the cabinets deeper. The 40mm wide strips are dowelled, glued, and screwed in position. The slot to locate the rear panel has been moved 40mm back, and the original slot filled
Making the cabinets deeper. The 40mm wide strips are dowelled, glued, and screwed in position. The slot to locate the rear panel has been moved 40mm back, and the original slot filled
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 ??  ?? Above and right: repairing the water damaged panel using material that previously covered the void space. The edges were routed and the patch secured with biscuits and glue
Above and right: repairing the water damaged panel using material that previously covered the void space. The edges were routed and the patch secured with biscuits and glue
 ??  ?? Below left: drilling holes for shelf support pins in the new bookcase space.
Below right: sometimes you overdrill the dowel holes and have to retrieve the dowel before you glue them.
Below left: drilling holes for shelf support pins in the new bookcase space. Below right: sometimes you overdrill the dowel holes and have to retrieve the dowel before you glue them.
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 ??  ?? Damp spot being dried out
Damp spot being dried out
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 ??  ?? The two cabinets removed
The two cabinets removed
 ??  ?? The void space above was to accommodat­e a structural cantilever beam
The void space above was to accommodat­e a structural cantilever beam
 ??  ?? Right: the original layout. Microwave and oven, pullout pantry, freezer, space where fridge used to be, and cupboards above
Right: the original layout. Microwave and oven, pullout pantry, freezer, space where fridge used to be, and cupboards above
 ??  ?? ... and adjusted all square and true
... and adjusted all square and true
 ??  ?? Cabinet doors back on ...
Cabinet doors back on ...
 ??  ?? Folding the stainless steel base on my workbench. I used a folder to do the two ends, clamped the base to the workbench, and the peened the front edge down over a length of angle iron and used the same technique to fold up the rear edge
Folding the stainless steel base on my workbench. I used a folder to do the two ends, clamped the base to the workbench, and the peened the front edge down over a length of angle iron and used the same technique to fold up the rear edge
 ??  ?? Finished base in place — I sealed the back corners and the slot along the front with Sikaflex 291
Finished base in place — I sealed the back corners and the slot along the front with Sikaflex 291

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