City of canals repays some extra walking
Neale Maynard was determined to track down the quaint osteria he stumbled on at the beginning of his Venetian sojourn
MY FAMILY has lived in Venice for 1000 years; my father, he is 90 years old. He will know where your osteria is.’’
So said the proud Venetian who answered our plea for help, a race against the clock on our last night in Venice trying to track down a tiny osteria ( restaurant/ bar) we’d stumbled across two nights earlier.
Armed with a photograph of what I thought was the osteria we’d visited ( there was even a street sign visible in the background), we had a map and as we tried to retrace our steps some buildings started to seem familiar.
But many things weren’t and we started to worry that we mightn’t find the place that had delivered such an enjoyable time two nights earlier. ( Disclaimer: I’d had more than my share of some enjoyable Italian wine with our first dinner there, so it’s entirely possible the snapshot taken that first evening was of another osteria entirely.)
There are lots of such places in Venice: some famous, many written up in guidebooks, many with prices that reflect the demand during tourist season as the world invades its watery streets.
And there are others, places that locals go, that are hard to find and offer a special taste of Venetian hospitality at reasonable prices.
We’d walked into one of those on our first night in Venice and