The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - Stellar - - DELICIOUS.100 -

LEVEL 2, THE STRAND AR­CADE, 412-414 GE­ORGE ST, SYD­NEY 9231 6117; PENDOLINO.COM.AU One of the city’s worst-kept se­crets, this sec­ond-floor Strand Ar­cade restau­rant is an Aus­tralian in­ter­pre­ta­tion of the best of Italy.

The dimly lit din­ing room with Vene­tian wrought iron and dou­ble white table­cloths re­minds us that the true art of restau­ra­teur­ing and ser­vice should not be con­sid­ered a dy­ing one. It’s a grade-A ex­pe­ri­ence. As with any ex­pe­ri­ence, it’s all about value, and you’d be hard-pressed to get a better Ital­ian feed in Aus­tralia thanks to the culi­nary nous dis­played by owner Nino Zoc­cali and head chef Dean Wor­thy.

A sheet of pork crack­ling veils milk-braised belly and a sage and pis­ta­chio sausage on a bed of potato puree. Just stun­ning.

With a pri­vate din­ing room show­cas­ing more than 20 Aus­tralian olive oils, pasta made daily in a purpose-built kitchen up­stairs and a wine list that takes you to ev­ery point of the lady’s boot,The Restau­rant Pendolino is world class, not just an Ital­ian stal­lion.

■ Must-eat dish Hand-made spinach ravi­oli, burnt but­ter, sage

■ Cui­sine Ital­ian

■ Chefs Nino Zoc­cali & Dean Wor­thy

■ Price $$$$$

■ Book­ings Yes

■ Open Lunch & din­ner Mon-Sat

■ In­sta­gram @ther­estau­rant­pen­dolino

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