RE­VIEW

Cult in­ner-west café Corner­smith, as fa­mous for its house-made cheese and pick­les as the week­end brunch queue, is now open af­ter dark with a ca­sual wine bar vibe

The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - Stellar - - Contents - AN­THONY HUCKSTEP RE­VIEWS CORNER­SMITH CAFÉ 314 Illawarra Rd, Mar­rickville; corner­smith.com.au

Cult in­ner-west café Corner­smith.

CAFÉS and restau­rants are dif­fer­ent propo­si­tions. One kick-starts the masses with caf­feine and ca­sual eats and, as the sun sets, the other al­lows one to for­get the hum­drum of the daily grind with some­thing far bet­ter than we can muster at home. At least that’s the goal.

When­ever I hear of an­other café branch­ing out and open­ing for din­ner my eyes roll so hard into the back of my head I al­most fall off my chair. They’re of­ten as un­der­whelm­ing as those spin off shows built around a char­ac­ter with a kooky catch phrase from a highly suc­cess­ful TV sit­com – great in the orig­i­nal con­text, but out of their depth and lost in a new set­ting. But Mar­rickville’s famed Corner­smith Café is an anom­aly – it al­ways has been.

With its pen­chant for pick­les, fresh cheese and char­cu­terie, they were half­way to the din­ner ta­ble al­ready. And, not sur­pris­ingly, the re­cent foray into twi­light has cap­tured the very essence of why we step out in the evening. It’s fun and blurs the lines of wine bar and res­tau­rant. The ser­vice feels like you’re in your best mate’s home and the shar­ing menu, al­though quite con­cise, is a hit list of must-eats.

Start with house-made pick­les (ob­vi­ously) and pay per gram. Match them with Kris­ten Allen’s light, creamy curd and a lick of stel­lar (or­ganic) chicken liver pâté. Rich, vel­vety and bol­stered by fer­mented cher­ries.

Steamed sweet corn lath­ered in Cal­abrian but­ter loaded with chilli and herbs is su­perb. Tar­ragon and fer­mented shiso help bring to­gether seg­ments of white peach and tomato, while a sweet, though not quite jammy, peach bar­be­cue sauce is bang on with sliv­ers of smoked Mem­phis-style pork. Wash it all down with a bot­tle of Heath­cote Ephe­mera Ver­mentino and you can cross off an­other suc­cess­ful night out.

There’s noth­ing fancy about what Corner­smith is do­ing, but what they are do­ing is spot on.

FROM TOP The quaint Mar­rickville café that blurs the line of wine bar and res­tau­rant, and the house-made pick­les and char­cu­terie.

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