The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - - 100 DELICIOUS -

23 Baranga­roo Ave, Baranga­roo, 9220 0111, cir­rus­din­ing. com. au Shim­mer­ing at the end of Baranga­roo wharf, Cir­rus is a land­mark din­ing des­ti­na­tion, with a clever menu un­der­pinned by seafood that is a tes­ta­ment to Brent Sav­age’s ex­per­tise.

A sheet of pearles­cent raw scampi is served dot­ted with na­tive beads of fin­ger lime and wafers of salted radish. It’s bold with­out be­ing bolshie, ingredient­s care­fully se­lected to com­ple­ment each other. A mo­saic-style ter­rine of latchet (a fish a bit like cod) and potato is rib­boned with nori sheets, a lus­cious sea­weed mus­tard along­side, with a vine­gary daikon pickle to cut through.

WA mar­ron is silky, bathed in mel­liflu­ous sea-urchin but­ter. Driz­zled with man­darin oil, it’s classy and per­fectly cooked. Ocean trout ril­lettes sit on a bed of barely smoked beetroot dusted in pep­per­berry and beetroot pow­der. The dish proves there’s a rea­son for clas­sic flavour pair­ings.

Res­tau­rant man­ager Abi Mullen is quick to of­fer in­ter­est­ing, re­fresh­ing wine pair­ings, mov­ing from bright, en­er­getic ries­lings to richer Si­cil­ian orange wines. They’re great drink­ing drops that stand up to, but don’t over­power, the food.

The sig­na­ture roasted tiger prawns de­liver a flavour punch, drenched in fer­mented chilli and sweet Thai basil. When you’ve fin­ished pick­ing your way through the smaller plates, seafood con­tin­ues to stand out in the main cour­ses, like a whole floun­der bar­be­cued un­til just opaque, the meat sat­is­fy­ingly drip­ping in smoky mus­sel but­ter.

The fi­nale is a tri­umphant lay­ered choco­late cake filled with tonka bean cream and fin­ished with chewy caramel. Some­times you just have to put the spoon down, but with an ex­pe­ri­ence this flaw­less, it’s no mean feat. Chefs Brent Sav­age & An­thony Schif il­liti Price $$$

Open Lunch & din­ner daily

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