The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - - 100 DELICIOUS -

Shop 2/ 16 The Ter­race, Brunswick Heads, 6685 1363, With stun­ning lo­cal ingredient­s, mind-blow­ing tech­niques and ser­vice that’s world- class with­out be­ing fussy, Fleet is small in size but has a huge heart, thanks to the pas­sion of Josh Lewis, Astrid McCor­mack and their de­voted team.

A con­crete counter dom­i­nates the space, lead­ing your eyes straight to the kitchen. An­other piece of ‘art’ is the bar, an undis­guised state­ment that drinks are as im­por­tant as food here. Sug­gested food-and­drink pair­ings are in­spired and dif­fer­ent – un­der­stated Bal­ter beer with crisp-yet- creamy sweet­bread schnitty, Span­ish

amon­til­lado sherry with roasted pump­kin, and a lightly sparkling sake with a sin­gle oys­ter, sheep’s milk yo­ghurt and macadamia.

The highly rec­om­mended tast­ing menu is made up of a se­ries of smaller dishes, fo­cus­ing on a few pri­mary ingredient­s. You get a lot for the $100 price tag and the menu is crafted for you.

Fleet wins the un­spo­ken res­tau­rant competitio­n for best house-made but­ter: it’s sweet, savoury and rem­i­nis­cent of salted caramel. Smoked mul­let with potato (“fancy chips and dip”, say staff) is a de­light. Plump prawns are grilled over coals and driz­zled with to­mato and cured pork fat. The re­sult is syrupy, acidic and smoky, and you can’t re­sist eat­ing the whole prawn, crunchy shell, eyes and all. Meat and seafood work won­der­fully to­gether again, with melt­ing beef short rib drenched in squid XO and su­gar­loaf salad with to- die-for savoury yeast dress­ing.

With ingredient­s this in­cred­i­ble, Lewis doesn’t need to do much, but his ex­tra­or­di­nary skills and pas­sion re­sult in food that has soul, and it’s im­pos­si­ble not to fall in love. Chef Josh Lewis Price $$$ Open Lunch Sun; late lunch Thu-Sat; din­ner Thu-Sat

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