The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - - 100 DELICIOUS -

2 Kalinya St, New­port, 9114 7350, merivale. com/ venues/ berts At Bert’s, it’s hard to know what’s more im­pres­sive; the strik­ing in­te­rior, ar­guably the most pic­turesque din­ing room in Syd­ney, the lush Euro­pean menu from Merivale ex­ec­u­tive chef, Jor­dan Toft, or the sweep­ing vista from the sun- drenched din­ing room over Pittwa­ter. Safe to say, it’s a win­ning tri­fecta.

The din­ing room takes in­spi­ra­tion from the 1930s, the flo­ral up­hol­stery, for­est-green hues, pink stone floor­ing and crisp white table­cloths trans­port­ing you to an­other era of din­ing.

A so­phis­ti­cated of­fer­ing from Toft ups the ante on brasserie-style fare. Kick off with a glass of Ruinart blanc de blancs from the cham­pagne se­lec­tion, and briny south coast oys­ters shucked to or­der and driz­zled with a light mignonette dress­ing. It’s the sim­ple stuff you need to do well at a venue of this size, and Toft shows re­straint with a lovely plate of hand-fil­leted an­chovies served in a pool of emer­ald- coloured ex­tra vir­gin olive oil flecked with lemon thyme and black pep­per. Soak up the oil with heav­enly pil­lows of fried bread.

For spe­cial oc­ca­sions, the lob­ster tagli­olini is a must: whole lob­ster in a glossy twirl of hand­made tagli­olini, coated in a rich emul­sion of to­mato, gar­lic, white wine, mar­jo­ram and olive oil.

There’s a pal­pa­ble sense of lux­ury and ro­mance here at Bert’s, and no one is com­plain­ing. Chefs Jor­dan Toft & Sam Kane Price $$$ Open Lunch Tue-Sun; din­ner Tue-Sat

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