The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - - 100 DELICIOUS -

27 O’Con­nell St, Syd­ney, 8214 0505, thebent­ley. com. au

One of the most cre­ative part­ner­ships in Aus­tralian restau­rants, Brent Sav­age and Nick Hilde­brandt shift fo­cus with ease in each of their equally note­wor­thy eater­ies, in­clud­ing Cir­rus, Monopole and Yel­low. The con­stant seam through all venues is Hilde­brandt’s wine smarts and Sav­age’s pre­ci­sion cook­ing. Here, at Bent­ley, it’s a broad palette for their com­bined artistry.

When the duo moved Bent­ley from its fairly mod­est site in Surry Hills into a her­itage build­ing in the city, they had a room more be­fit­ting of the so­phis­ti­ca­tion on the plate, given a dra­matic makeover by long-time ar­chi­tect col­lab­o­ra­tor Pas­cale Gomes-McNabb.

A cast of un­ex­pected play­ers sup­port the he­roes on the plates. WA mar­ron lolls in an earth­ysweet onion broth, bass grouper is bol­stered by gar­licky pil pil sauce and show­ered with sun­flower shoots, while green rice and broad bean shoots are sur­pris­ingly lifted with a pi­quant kohlrabi sauce. Dessert is no dif­fer­ent. Rib­bons of pump­kin, for in­stance, con­ceal­ing pump­kin curd are like old friends with brown-but­ter ice cream and man­darin gel.

With ser­vice as ur­bane as the food, this is re­laxed fine din­ing for grown-ups. Chef Brent Sav­age Price $$$ Open Lunch Mon-Fri; din­ner Mon-Sat

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