BENTLEY RESTAURANT & BAR
27 O’Connell St, Sydney, 8214 0505, thebentley. com. au
One of the most creative partnerships in Australian restaurants, Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt shift focus with ease in each of their equally noteworthy eateries, including Cirrus, Monopole and Yellow. The constant seam through all venues is Hildebrandt’s wine smarts and Savage’s precision cooking. Here, at Bentley, it’s a broad palette for their combined artistry.
When the duo moved Bentley from its fairly modest site in Surry Hills into a heritage building in the city, they had a room more befitting of the sophistication on the plate, given a dramatic makeover by long-time architect collaborator Pascale Gomes-McNabb.
A cast of unexpected players support the heroes on the plates. WA marron lolls in an earthysweet onion broth, bass grouper is bolstered by garlicky pil pil sauce and showered with sunflower shoots, while green rice and broad bean shoots are surprisingly lifted with a piquant kohlrabi sauce. Dessert is no different. Ribbons of pumpkin, for instance, concealing pumpkin curd are like old friends with brown-butter ice cream and mandarin gel.
With service as urbane as the food, this is relaxed fine dining for grown-ups. Chef Brent Savage Price $$$ Open Lunch Mon-Fri; dinner Mon-Sat