The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - - 100 DELICIOUS -

66 Hunter St, Syd­ney, 8099 7077, rock pool bar and grill. com. au

In the Art Deco din­ing hall of Neil Perry’s high-fly­ing diner, soar­ing ceil­ings meet three­storey high green mar­ble col­umns. It’s a tem­ple be­fit­ting a pow­er­house like Perry.

The wine list, a 168-page tome put to­gether by head som­me­lier Yuki Hirose, con­tains an en­cy­clo­pe­dic col­lec­tion of vi­nos. In sim­i­lar fash­ion, the food menu cov­ers vast ter­ri­tory, from whole seafood dishes to ro­tis­serie chicken and hand­made pas­tas.

How­ever, it’s the steak, or more specif­i­cally, David Black­more’s dry-aged wagyu 9+ mar­ble score beef, that is the must- or­der dish. Choos­ing be­tween the scotch fil­let, rump cap or top­side merely comes down to pref­er­ence. A 550g rib eye on the bone glides off the knife like hot melted but­ter, with rich, beefy flavours mul­ti­plied to the power of 10. Sides are or­dered sep­a­rately, from the wagyu-fat pota­toes to the sweet creamed corn rip­pled with smoky charred ker­nels.

Even if you don’t have a com­pany credit card to charge it to, Rockpool is still worth sav­ing the pen­nies for. Chef Corey Costel­loe Price $$$$ Open Lunch Mon-Fri; din­ner daily

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