The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - - 100 DELICIOUS -

Hunger­ford Hill Win­ery, Broke Rd, Pokol­bin, 4998 6777, muse­din­ing. com. au Don’t let the pas­toral scenes fool you; this Hunter Val­ley res­tau­rant is as slick as they come.

Sur­rounded by vine- cov­ered hills, the build­ing is an im­pres­sive struc­ture where the soar­ing glass ceil­ing lets in a slice of blue sky. The smartly dressed front- of-house rises to meet the stan­dard set by the set­ting and the food, bring­ing this re­gional res­tau­rant right up to world- class.

The farm-to-fork menu, cre­ated by owner-chef Troy Rhoades-Brown, takes the re­gion’s boun­teous pro­duce and el­e­vates it to a whole new plane. A roulade of Lit­tle Hill Farm chicken is served along­side its feed, a charred sweet corn po­lenta strewn with puffed rice and mi­cro herbs. Mean­while, a tranche of trout is hedged by a for­est of flo­rets, the vi­brant stalks sprout­ing from a mound of creamed cau­li­flower. Ap­ple pie, the most coun­try of desserts, is re­born as an up­per- crust cre­ation. Poached red gala ap­ples make a soft cra­dle for but­tery miso cus­tard, brioche crumbs and shaved macadamias, fin­ished with a scat­tered crust of wat­tle seed.

Chefs Troy Rhoades-Brown & Mitchell Beswick Price $$$ Open Lunch Sat-Sun; din­ner Wed-Sat

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