The Sunday Telegraph (Sydney) - - 100 DELICIOUS -

69 Com­mon­wealth St, Surry Hills, 9281 3322, chinch­in­restau­rant. com. au

Two years af­ter Chin Chin took over the ground floor of the Grif­fiths Teas Build­ing, its pop­u­lar­ity hasn’t cooled and nei­ther has the cook­ing. The menu trades in amped-up flavours, with chefs Ben Cooper and Graeme Hunt push­ing each dish to the point of sen­sory over­load.

Start with the king­fish sashimi driz­zled in lime and fresh co­conut cream, then work your way to the short rib with herbs and prik nahm pla dress­ing or the wok-tossed prawn and egg noo­dles slicked in hell­fire chilli oil. When you think you’re ready to face the full force of flavour, go the bar­ra­mundi and crispy pork salad – a face-slap­ping combo of hot, salty, sweet and sour. Dial it down at any time with the hon­eyed yo­ghurt and cu­cum­ber ba­tons or the co­conut sago pud­ding for dessert. The wine list is well priced and far-reach­ing, but with quaf­fa­ble drops on tap, it’s hard to go past a carafe.

Chefs Ben Cooper & Graeme Hunt Price $$

Open Lunch & din­ner daily

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