Max Allen: dodgy drops; The Bill: Syd­ney’s Guil­laume; Short Or­der: Lyn­dey Mi­lan

The Weekend Australian - Life - - FOOD & WINE - EL­IZ­A­BETH MERYMENT

GUIL­LAUME 92 Har­grave St, Padding­ton, Syd­ney Phone: 02 9302 5222


LO­CA­TION On­line book­ing site Dimmi re­ported this month that din­ers spend more in Padding­ton restau­rants than they do at venues in any other Syd­ney sub­urb, splurg­ing an av­er­age $81 a head. And that re­port was com­pleted be­fore Guil­laume opened. No won­der chef Guil­laume Brahimi homed in on this gen­teel in­ner-city neigh­bour­hood when his ten­ure at the Opera House came to an abrupt end last year. There’s money to burn in th­ese parts, as Brahimi’s neigh­bours no doubt al­ready know. Next door is Colin Fass­nidge’s Four in Hand Din­ing Room, while up the road is vin­tage Ital­ian Lu­cio’s.


About two-thirds of staff have mi­grated from Guil­laume at Ben­ne­long, which means this 60-seater two-level din­ing space is prac­ti­cally over­staffed, con­sid­er­ing the old restau­rant sat 180. There’s a mea­sure of f rev­er­en­tial hush in the room as wait­ers glide de about, fuss­ing over din­ers. If you’re lucky, you might score som­me­lier elier Chris Mor­ri­son on your ta­ble. He gives just the right amount of at­ten­tion with­out cramp­ing your style. le.


This is so­phis­ti­cated, lux­u­ri­ous din­ing. But for this price, I per­son­ally would seek the ge­nius of Sepia, Quay or Rock­pool with their more daz­zling, ad­ven­tur­ous menus. Guil­laume, I sus­pect, will be for se­ri­ous old money — peo­ple who know French food and aren’t afraid to pay for it.


Of course.


The Th food is old-school French: Fr small quan­ti­ties of fuss­ily fu pre­pared proteins sup­ported su by tech­niquedriven d sauces. There are four menu op­tions. We, time con­scious on a school night, opt for four cour­ses a la carte, $135. This of­fers a choice from four menu seg­ments, the open­ing tranche of which in­cludes dishes of raw bluefin tuna t with lemon foam and warm hints of wasabi, and “royale” of globe ar­ti­choke, a luxe cus­tard studded with mud crab and truf­fle. Two fur­ther savoury cour­ses based around del­i­cate lux­u­ries like Patag­o­nian tooth­fish and quail are com­pleted by a desserts sec­tion that in­cludes a soar­ing Val­rhona souffle with cherry rip­ple ice cream, which proves a se­ri­ous threat to the waist­line.

Spe­cial-oc­ca­sion din­ers will find the eight-course $175 de­gus­ta­tion fea­tures Brahimi’s sig­na­ture basil­in­fused tuna as an amuse­bouche, while the bud­get­con­scious can plump for one course ($48) or two cour­ses ($75). All op­tions are served with Paris mash and a leafy salad, plus Iggy’s rolls with Myrtle­ford but­ter.

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