Hip­ster a cut above the rest

The Weekend Australian - Review - - Books -

The 1970s tai­lor Tommy Nut­ter made suits that, to the scep­tic, looked as cer­ti­fi­able as his name. Lapels as broad as bill­boards. Trouser legs like tents. Shoul­ders as wide as a man­tel­piece.

And as for the fab­rics. A green velvet jacket with bro­cade lapels. A tweed coat with can­dy­or­ange trim. A grey-and-gold shoot­ing suit.

The pho­to­graphs strewn through­out Lance Richard­son’s House of Nut­ter show tai­lor­ing not so much loud as deaf­en­ing.

If these suits were the opposite of stealth, then so were the men who wore them. Mick Jag­ger sported an eau-de-nil three-piece for his wed­ding to Bianca in 1971. He was in an­other Nut­ter job days later on his hon­ey­moon in Venice, fit­ted so snug around his nether re­gions it left no doubt as to which way he “dressed”.

This was just one of the more in­ti­mate pieces of in­for­ma­tion that a “cut­ter” would know of his client. “They used to say that the re­la­tion­ship of a man to his tai­lor was like a wo­man and her gy­nae­col­o­gist,” Play­boy mag­a­zine ob­served. “All pri­vate.”

Tom Jones, an un­usu­ally cir­cum­spect Nut­ter reg­u­lar, “de­clined to have his waist mea­sured, in­sist­ing he was a peren­nial 32 inches”.

Nut­ter could cut, but didn’t have the bril­liance of his side­kick Ed­ward Sex­ton. What he had, 188cm streak of mati­nee idol that he was, was star qual­ity. In his pomp in the late 1960s and 70s, he was “the coolest man you have ever seen”, said his friend the ac­tress Carol Drinkwa­ter. And he could con­jure. The de­signer Hardy Amies named him “the most ex­cit­ing tai­lor on Sav­ile Row in decades”.

House of Nut­ter is a tale that is quintessen­tially of its era, told by a bi­og­ra­pher who com­bines pace and ex­haus­tive­ness. Tommy and his brother David, a pho­tog­ra­pher who snapped his way through the same worlds of fash­ion and celebrity, were a pair of blue-col­lar-boys-made- Tony Nut­ter dressed both Bianca and Mick Jag­ger, who are seen here at their 1971 wed­ding in the French re­sort of St Tropez

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.