In­sid­ers re­veal their top picks in Copen­hagen

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - TRAVEL & INDULGENCE - Anna Rus­sell

Den­mark’s cap­i­tal is an easy sell in the north­ern sum­mer. Lo­cals swim in ur­ban har­bours such as Brygge or Fiske­torvet is­lands, or pic­nic near the seem­ingly bound­less flower beds in the Re­nais­sance-era King’s Gar­den.

But as win­ter in­sin­u­ates its way into the city, Copen­hagen dis­plays an­other strength. It em­braces the cold in el­e­gant Nordic style.

In the darker months, can­dles wedged into wine bot­tles gleam in restau­rant win­dows, the candy colours of the canal­side build­ings pop against the muted skies and a twinkly-lit skat­ing rink draws vis­i­tors to the edge of Fred­eriks­berg Gar­dens. Res­i­dents still ride their bi­cy­cles through the 100ha Dyre­haven Park, but they just do it wrapped in heavy, Dan­ish-de­signed jackets.

Foodie pil­grim­age site Noma has just closed and is re­open­ing as an ur­ban farm but a few of its alumni have opened restau­rants around the city where the cold and peck­ish can warm up with a bite or a glass of nat­u­ral wine. “The win­ter, I find, is more in­ti­mate,” says Line Clausen Ped­er­sen, cu­ra­tor at the Glyp­toteket Mu­seum. “More true to the soul of the city.”

Here are a few tips from the city’s lead­ing iden­ti­ties:


Su­sanne Bier, di­rec­tor of The Night Man­ager win­ning Dan­ish film In a Bet­ter World. INTO THE WOODS: Dyre­haven is a cross be­tween a for­est and a park, very lush. You can see deer there, and in the mid­dle is a cas­tle, where it’s ru­moured the kings took their mis­tresses. When I go run­ning there in the early morn­ing, I feel like I own the for­est. AIN’T SHE SWEET: Con­di­tori La Glace is an old patis­serie from the end of the 19th cen­tury; it has a spe­cial pas­try with cream in­side and pink or yel­low ic­ing on top, just like any girl’s dream of a cake; Sk­oubo­gade 3; CASA COPEN­HAGEN: I love Hos Fis­cher, a su­per-cosy restau­rant where they spe­cialise in Ital­ian food with Dan­ish in­gre­di­ents. The chef does an amaz­ing steak with toma­toes and veg­eta­bles on top; Vic­tor Borges Plads 12; hos­fis­ STATE OF ART: Statens Mu­seum for Kunst has amaz­ing ex­hi­bi­tions and an ar­chi­tec­turally in­ter­est­ing mod­ern wing. Op­po­site the mu­seum is a beau­ti­ful lit­tle park with an­other cas­tle; Solv­gade 48-50;


and Os­car-

Rene Redzepi, chef and co-owner of Noma. NORDIC CARNITAS: A sous-chef of ours has opened a mind-blow­ing taque­ria, Hija de Sanchez. Tor­tillas are made to or­der and the meats have been sim­mer­ing all night. Or­der the off-menu Dirty Car­nita — pork cooked in fat over crispy Mex­i­can cheese; Slagter­boderne 8, hi­jade­ STREET AP­PEAL: The area around Jaegers­borggade Street is on fire at the mo­ment with spots such as Man­fred’s restau­rant and Cof­fee Col­lec­tive and small ce­ram­ics stores. VA­RI­ETY IS THE SPICE: The space in the or­ganic restau­rant Amass is spec­tac­u­lar. They serve one menu, and it changes all the time. One of the sim­plest, best things I’ve had was a rose­mary-spiced pump­kin cooked so slowly the tex­ture was like tof­fee; Ref­shalevej 153; amass­restau­ WINE O’CLOCK: Copen­hagen has been at the fore­front of nat­u­ral wine for more than a decade, and Ved Stran­den 10 does it re­ally well; ved­stran­


Line Clausen Ped­er­sen, cu­ra­tor, Glyp­toteket Mu­seum DINE & DE­SIGN: The restau­rant Ad­mi­ral­gade 26 is pleas­ing to the eye as well as the palate, with Dan­ish and Euro­pean decor from the 20s on­ward; ad­mi­ral­ HIGH SPIR­ITS: Right next to the Royal Dan­ish Theatre, Bron­num is a classy cock­tail bar with food and the place to meet beau­ti­ful crea­tures af­ter dark. The build­ing is his­toric, and the high ceil­ings make ev­ery­thing feel so much more im­por­tant; Au­gust Bournonvilles Pas­sage 1; bron­num­ CAST OF THOU­SANDS: Thor­vald­sens Mu­seum is worth vis­it­ing for the roof dec­o­ra­tions and the floor mo­saics alone; this 19th-cen­tury sculp­ture mu­seum is like a lit­tle pocket of lux­ury, or­na­ment and colour; 2 Ber­tel Thor­vald­sens Plads; thor­vald­sens­mu­ REST­ING ON LAU­RELS: As­sis­tens Ceme­tery, a park­meets-grave­yard, is beau­ti­ful in ev­ery sea­son. Take a pic­nic and eat near the tombs of Hans Chris­tian An­der­sen and other fa­mous Danes; Kapelvej 4.


Mette Hay, co-founder of Dan­ish fur­ni­ture de­sign com­pany HAY SE­CRET GAR­DEN: Step into Glyp­toteket Mu­seum with its fab­u­lous art col­lec­tion and a win­ter gar­den, and you com­pletely for­get you are in the mid­dle of the city cen­tre. We of­ten bring guests here; Dantes Plads 7; glyp­ STYLE MUSE: The owner of fash­ion store Holly Go­lightly is very good at com­bin­ing colours and pat­terns and vin­tage along­side high-end brands such as Dries Van Noten and Proenza Schouler; Gam­mel Mønt 2; hol­ly­go­ CU­RATED CAFE: In Gothers­gade, Ate­lier Septem­ber cafe serves very sim­ple food for break­fast and lunch, such as yo­ghurt with gra­nola and zuc­chini. Ev­ery­thing from the chairs to the cups has been hand-picked; Gothers­gade 30; ate­lierseptem­ IN LIV­ING COLOUR: The Apart­ment ex­hi­bi­tion space and store sells vin­tage and con­tem­po­rary fur­ni­ture in a charm­ing apart­ment at Chris­tian­shavn.

It’s a colour­ful place, where the walls are re­painted sev­eral times a year; Over­gaden Ne­den Van­det 33; thea­part­


LOUISIANA MU­SEUM OF MOD­ERN ART: On a bluff 45 min­utes by train out­side the city cen­tre, this eye­catch­ing mu­seum hosts an out­door sculp­ture park and a first-class Gi­a­cometti col­lec­tion; Gl Strand­vej 13, Hum­le­baek; NIMB HO­TEL: This lux­ury ho­tel fea­tures 17 gue­strooms, most with an­tique fur­nish­ings, open fire­places and views over the Tivoli Gar­dens. From about $US425 ($552); NATUR POTOKET: Stock up on Nordic beauty es­sen­tials, like Sun­pati fa­cial oil, at this small, nat­u­ral health store; Torve­g­ade 36; natur­ 108: Salt-baked cele­riac and braised ox­tail are stand­outs at Noma alum­nus Kristian Bau­mann’s new restau­rant on Chris­tian­shavn har­bour. Dishes em­pha­sise in­gre­di­ents for­aged and pick­led through­out the year; Strandgade 108;

Ice skat­ing on the edge of Fred­eriks­berg Gar­dens, top; lively Jaegers­borggade, above left; Man­freds restau­rant, above cen­tre; Amass or­ganic restau­rant, above right; Louisiana Mu­seum of Mod­ern Art, be­low

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