Dine and shop in style

The Weekend Australian - Travel - - TRAVEL & INDULGENCE -

DA MARIA BALI: Maurice Terzini, of Ice­berg’s at Syd­ney’s Bondi Beach, is be­hind this trat­to­ria that could have been air­lifted from the Amalfi Coast and where, man­age­ment prom­ises, very day is a care­free Satur­day. Cock­tails are sen­sa­tional, 30cm piz­zas with about a dozen types of top­pings are cooked Neapoli­tan style in lava-stone ovens; or go for house-made pasta, crispy-skinned fish of the day, snap­per crudo with tomato, chilli and mar­jo­ram, or wood-roasted sar­dines on br­uschetta with tomato and basil. High­lights of the crisp blue, white and prim­rose decor are tiled foun­tains, ex­u­ber­ant chan­de­liers, retro wrought-iron pa­tio fur­ni­ture, and oval skylights; at the rear is an open court­yard and DJs hit the joint for party time after 10.30pm; damari­a­bali.com.

SALUMERIA TANAH BARAK: An Ital­ian-in­flu­enced bar by a Canggu rice-field with shelves of Cam­pari and Aperol and boast­ing the dirt­i­est mar­tini on the is­land? This tiny spot is great for aper­i­tivi and share plates that fea­ture ter­rific an­tipasti, cheese, olives and grissini plus ro­bust dishes such as bur­rata with ex­tra vir­gin olive oil, basil and Amed sea salt from east Bali or cured tuna with shaved fen­nel, pome­gran­ate, mint, chilli and tan­ger­ine juice. There are oys­ters and buck­ets of prawns on “seafood Mon­days”, bright young bar­tenders and staff in leather butcher’s aprons, royal-blue so­fas and low chairs, tiled floors and tiny wire-legged ta­bles. It’s an en­joy­able trans­plant with mo­tor­bikes speed­ing past and cul­ti­vated crops be­yond. Aus­tralian chef Ge­off Lind­say has mas­ter­minded the en­ter­prise and in­stalled a big red hand-cranked slicer for those pressed meats. Open 4pm-11pm; salumeria.asia.

PELO­TON SU­PER SHOP: Would you like some bi­cy­cle clips with that? This ve­gan cafe and ar­ti­san cy­cling store of­fers “plant-based vi­bra­tions” but if you can get past the self-con­scious nam­ing of dishes, from Lance Lasagna and Team Taco to Pedal-pow­ered Pan­cakes and Tan­dem Toast, it’s a great hang­out spot in the thick of Canggu’s Jalan Pan­tai Ber­awa re­tail strip. Ex­cel­lent break­fasts are served from 8am to noon and then the lunch menu pow­ers up un­til a leisurely 4pm. Fab cof­fees are made with cashew or al­mond milk, the house-brewed chai is served with soy and there are four fer­mented kom­bucha blends, in­clud­ing pas­sion­fruit and vanilla bean; pelo­ton­super­shop.com.

BUN­GA­LOW LIV­ING: Dan­ger­ously close to both Villa Mana and Ar­nalaya, this trop­i­cal-meet-tribal home­wares cot­tage has re­cently ex­panded across Jalan Pan­tai Ber­awa in Canggu and fea­tures the likes of cot­ton and linen cush­ions with palm and pineap­ple motifs, bas­kets and coast­ers de­tailed with cowrie shells and pom­poms, sea­grass place­mats, and chic macrame sun­hats. The cute all-day cafe serves or­ganic food, good cof­fee, en­er­giser juices, smooth­ies and fab­u­lous cakes and pas­tries, in­clud­ing French-style ap­ple pie. Look for teddy bears with name tags (Hello! My name is Jax!) made by lo­cal women in dif­fi­cult cir­cum­stances who re­ceive the pro­ceeds via a char­ity co­op­er­a­tive; bun­ga­lowliv­ing­bali.com.

THE JUN­GLE TRADER: Also on Jalan Pan­tai Ber­awa in Canggu, this store has jun­gle-green ceram­ics (bowls, vases, teapots and cups) to suit the decor vibe, rat­tan bas­kets and light­shades, fear­some-look­ing carved masks, co­conut-shell kitchen la­dles, brass bells with rope pulls, and hand-made em­broi­dered linen tiger and leop­ard toys made for the store by a women’s foun­da­tion; in­sta­gram.com/the­jun­gle­trader.

KIM SOO HOME: It’s worth the 10km drive from Canggu to Bali’s de­sign-cen­tral store, Kim Soo Home on Seminyak’s Jalan Kayu Aya, which has re­cently added The Space Up­stairs for themed in­stal­la­tions and in­te­ri­ors. The cool white shop is a mecca for lovers of all things Asian and cov­etable, from wooden deer’s heads ready to mount on walls to plat­ters, pots, bas­kets. There are fra­grant soaps and can­dles, glossy white ginger jars, shi­bori cush­ion cov­ers and beachy cloth­ing. The on­site cafe is a fab break­fast spot (ri­cotta pan­cakes, barista cof­fee) and for morn­ing or af­ter­noon tea out come the tow­er­ing slices of cake — lemon pound, hum­ming­bird, car­rot, choc­co­conut or dulce de leche; kim­soohome.com.

KEVALA CERAM­ICS: Now seen at many re­sorts and restau­rants, in­clud­ing the Ba­tu­riti range exclusive to T&I’s all-time fave, Hu­jan Lo­cale at Ubud, Kevala’s hand­made ta­ble and kitchen wares are charm­ing and orig­i­nal with raised dec­o­ra­tions of leaves, flow­ers, petals, birds, stripes and chevrons. There are shops in Ubud and Petitenget and its prod­ucts are also sold at the ex­cel­lent Souq Bali home­wares haven and cafe on Jalan Raya Basangkasa in Seminyak; ke­valac­e­ram­ics.com; souq­s­tore.co.

Salumeria Tanah Barak, above left; Bun­ga­low Liv­ing, cen­tre; Da Maria Bali

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